The IADS helps members address multifaceted issues from answering their most operational questions or coordinating information flow to helping them address future challenges by questioning their methodologies and providing a different perspective.

This is the reason why the IADS invited Demet Ikiler, COO EMEA at Publicis Group, to discuss the white-hot Retail Media topic. Retail Media Networks (RMNs) are making the headlines for their ability to generate an additional flow of revenue with high margin yields, while making the most of department stores' most prized assets: their own sales channels. However, since the press often emphasizes big players' actions, such as Amazon and Walmart, the purpose of this conversation was to give all department store CEOs a good understanding of the situation and the stakes at hand while discussing what would be needed for a department store company to launch its own RMN.

*Demet Ikiler was appointed Chief Operating Officer of Publicis Groupe EMEA in January 2023. She joined after over two decades at WPP, where she was a member of GroupM's global leadership team as CEO of GroupM EMEA and WPP Country chair, responsible for scaling and delivering more innovative cross-culture solutions for clients. Demet has been recognized by Fortune and The Economist as one of the ten most powerful female CEOs and as an Empower 100 Executive Role Model in 2022. She is also a board member of the United Nations Global Compact, leading its diversity and inclusion chapter. Prior to WPP, Demet Ikiler worked at Zenith and Saatchi & Saatchi.*

IADS Exclusive: What department store leaders need to know about Retail Media

IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics. This is an example of the themes the Association regularly addresses, and the topic of an article from the IADS members-only newsletter date 21 June 2023.

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The IADS joined cybersecurity professionals from various retail businesses at the RH-ISAC conference hosted by Nestlé in Barcelona in April '23. RH-ISAC provides a trusted forum for its members in the retail, hospitality, and related industries to share cybersecurity threat intelligence, best practices, and mitigation strategies. IADS attended on behalf of its members in order to get a better understanding of what is happening in the space.

The two-day workshop was an occasion for industry leaders to share the latest information and challenges around the cybersecurity landscape. Retail experts discussed the latest cybersecurity trends and threats especially in regard to advancements in ChatGPT, AI, Machine Learning, as well as the importance of implementing fusion centres.

IADS Exclusive: AI and fusion centres power up retail cybersecurity teams

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To the relief of many retailers, Chinese borders reopened in January 2023 after 3 years of closure. While they learnt how to survive during and after the pandemic by addressing local clients and other nationalities, they eagerly waited to see Chinese tourists back in stores, especially in Europe, where they represented 50% of luxury sales before the pandemic, according to Altagamma.

2022 was not bad for continental European retailers: Galeries Lafayette and Printemps in France almost fully recovered to their 2019 levels, while La Rinascente in Italy, Breuninger in Germany and El Corte Inglés in Spain all exceeded either their 2019 sales revenues or profits. This can be attributed to several factors, the strength of the US dollar (an incentive for US tourists to splurge into luxury purchases in Europe), European tourists criss-crossing the continent to spend their Covid-19 savings, the UK decision to scrap VAT relief channelling clients to Paris, Milan and other destinations, among others.

However, these conjunctural factors are not expected to last. In parallel, while the Chinese appetite for luxury has not faded, overseas retailers wonder if they will be able to get a piece of the pie, which is why anxiety about Chinese tourism is mounting. Knowing when exactly they will be back, and what they will be looking for, is key to make sure stores are properly prepared to welcome such customers again.

This article was first released on MindRetail as an op-ed.

IADS Exclusive: Chinese tourists are back to Europe. Are you ready?

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The IADS attended the latest edition of the World Retail Congress in Barcelona, during which the Association had the privilege to moderate a roundtable dedicated to the future of department stores, with the CEO of Steen and Strøm in Norway, the CFO of Matahari in Indonesia, and the Deputy Chair at John Lewis in the UK.

This edition was also the opportunity to listen to great leaders and hear their insights. Below is a selection of the most interesting lessons we took home.

IADS Exclusive: The World Retail Congress

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IADS consolidated 2023 Spring and Summer window displays from around the world in the latest Spring-Summer window report. Have a look at how IADS members and other department stores are capturing the upcoming new seasons through their artistic and inspiring interpretations.

DEPARTMENT STORES WINDOWS, IN-STORE INSTALLATIONS, VISUALS & SOCIAL MEDIA SPOTS

IADS Exclusive: Department Stores Spring-Summer Windows 2023

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Private shopping is nothing new to retail. Think high jewellery and watchmakers, they have always traded in discreet ways. More recently, luxury flagship stores have increasingly developed private lounges. While they used to be opulent rooms with comfortable sofas, they have transformed and expanded into private floors, private apartments, and finally, full private stores that are only accessible to a limited list of VICs. This comes as an evolution for big spenders' shopping habits. On one hand, top customers tend to spend more, hence expect to be treated accordingly. On the other hand, the pandemic created a new demand for one-of-a-kind or, at least, special experiences.

Besides, in an environment where luxury brands intend to increasingly go direct-to-consumer and where resale is gaining traction and is considered a more responsible shopping behaviour, private retailing represents an additional and crucial strategy for brands to make a difference in the way they consider their best customers.

While Covid accelerated luxury consumption, the private retailing trend is here to stay. Many options are available from full private stores, private suites and salons inside of the stores, to confidential retail spaces. The IADS pulled together the most relevant examples of what private retailing offers at the moment.

IADS Exclusive: Is private retailing the future of luxury shopping?

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The IADS' role as an expert platform is to be aware, explore, and inform its department store members about every aspect of innovation in retail, in order to help them address the future challenges with the best cards in hand. This involves taking a step back from fads and fashion, and addressing innovation with a cold head to report what is going on.

This is the reason why the IADS invited Sandra Gasmi, founder of Demain Beauty, an innovative clean beauty brand, to present the Metaverse initiative she has developed with her team in partnership with Chafik Studio, an architect company founded by Chafik Gasmi, her husband, that has worked with Sephora, Lancôme, LVMH, in addition to having experiences in the hospitality sector.

IADS EXCLUSIVE: The Metaverse: explored by retailers

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The IADS is at a crossroads when it comes to helping its members, by at the same time addressing their most operational questions and coordinating the informational flow, but also helping them to address future challenges, by questioning their methodology and providing a different point of view.

This is the reason why the IADS invited Eugenie Rives to share her view on the management of innovation and transformation, as the Early Project Managing Director at  Project X, Alphabet's "moonshot factory". Before joining X, Eugenie led Operations for Google in France and Sub-Saharan Africa. Before Google, Eugenie worked for Alcatel in Mexico city, managing projects to connect cities and public infrastructure online.

Alphabet's moonshot factory is the place where uncomfortably ambitious, world-changing ideas are developed. These early-stage moonshot teams are exploring radical new ways to solve some of the world's biggest problems using breakthrough technology. She explained how a moonshot project works.

IADS Exclusive: How to achieve innovation in permanent disruption: the Google Project X example

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Digital transformation remains a central topic of discussion for department stores. The IADS already dedicated its 2021 White Paper to the topic, trying to understand what was at stake and what was needed within department store companies to fully embrace the change. In order to bring a very down-to-earth angle to the conversation, the IADS invited Laurent Raoul to explain his views on digital transformation in heritage organisations in a new global context.

Laurent Raoul is the founder and managing consultant of XLc Consultancy Company, specializing in Supply Chain, Operating Models and Back Office IT systems dedicated to the Fashion Industry. He has run development or restructuring projects for brands belonging to main Fashion Groups in Europe or in the US, and for mass market and bridge brands or retailers.

IADS Exclusive: Digital transformation in heritage organisations: how to adjust to the new global context?

IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics. This is an example of the themes the Association regularly addresses, and the topic of an article from the IADS members-only newsletter date 26 April 2023.

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The IADS invited Green Pea to address member CEOs. This exclusive covers the most important takeaways from the meeting.

As shown in the latest IADS White Paper on Sustainability and Department Stores, the topic of converging towards an environmentally and economically durable and sustainable model is extremely complicated. The more retailers dive into CSR and ESG commitments, the more complicated questions they have to face. In addition, the majority of IADS department stores do not have the luxury of starting from scratch to create a 'green' or 'sustainable' business from the ground up. They have to pivot their centuries-old organisations to be able to meet the standards of today's regulations and expectations while keeping business-as-usual operations.

However, it is still possible to find inspiration from new business models. In order to provide IADS member CEOs another angle, the Association invited Francesco Farinetti, CEO of the Green Pea department store in Turin, Italy to present the first "Green retail park" in the world.  The department store has been constructed sustainably and considers the impact that its business has on its community as well as the earth. Farinetti, who has been CEO of Eataly prior to this experience, presented his company's radical take on a retailer that puts sustainability at the core of the business.

IADS Exclusive: The CEO of Green Pea on challenging the retail business model

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It is no secret that relational shopping is becoming very important to grow a retail business from local to international clients, and anyone not aware of it learnt it the hard way during the pandemic. Mobile and web solutions are now helping sales associates understand their customers better and increase sales thanks to a single tool pulling in consumer data points from various channels. The IADS' role as an expert body is to be aware, explore, and inform its department store members about every aspect of innovation in retail, which is why the Association invited Arnaud Barbelet, COO of Clientela, and Thomas Meyer, CEO of Mobile Now Group to share the importance of relational shopping.

Clientela is a software company based in New York City, with global operations. They aim to reinvent the store as an engine for growth, with a complete suite of Acquisition, Loyalty and Retail Operations solutions. Arnaud Barbelet is COO and co-founder, in charge of European markets. He focuses his expertise on clienteling, consumer experience and product strategy for key brands and retailers including Chloé, Diptyque and Magasin du Nord.

Mobile Now is a leading, full service, mobile development studio, with a focus on digital experiences, products, and platforms. Founded in 2009, it is now present in Shanghai, Hangzhou and Changsha, China and Singapore. An international team of 90, Mobile Now provides consultancy through to UX and UI design, as well as development across all the key mobile platforms. Thomas Meyer, CEO and co-founder, started the company in 2009 after realizing to what extent mobile phones could disrupt consumers' and retailers' existences.

Together, they presented examples (Magasin du Nord, Lane Crawford) in order to generate a very lively conversation.

IADS Exclusive: Relational shopping: business cases from Magasin du Nord and Lane Crawford

IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics. This is an example of the themes the Association regularly addresses, and the topic of an article from the IADS members-only newsletter date 12 April 2023.

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The IADS attended the latest edition of the Retail Summit in Dubai, during which the Association had the privilege to moderate two roundtables, one centered on customer centricity (with the CEO of AWW group, owner of Pepe Jeans, Hackett and Façonnable, the CEO of WHP Global, owner of Toys'R'Us, and the President of Fashion, Beauty and Homeware at Chalhoub), and the second one on the future of specialty retail (with the CEO of Fred Segal, CEO and co-founder of The Latest Concept Store, and the CEO of Al Sulaiman Group).

This edition was also the opportunity to listen to great leaders and hear their insights. Below is a selection of the most interesting lessons we took home.

Overall, the Retail Summit is a rather surprising event when compared to the NRF in New York or the WRC. Its regional dimension makes it an ideal event for any organization or business interested in the Middle East, but it is also a great opportunity for networking, as guest speakers and high-ranking visitors are easily reachable thanks to its intimate and smaller format. Bumping into CEOs is easy during lunch breaks and conversations are casual.

While the first day was focused on functional approaches to the business, the second day was star-studded with retail legends, bringing the audience into another dimension. Three ranges of topics were discussed:

• New ways to address the notions of customer lifetime value, mass and scalable experience customization, and customer-centricity (a key topic in the Middle East),
• Sustainability and how it translates into fashion and retail,
• Keeping legacy businesses (either brands or retail formats) relevant for the future.

IADS Exclusive: Highlights from The 2023 Retail Summit in Dubai

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Retailers do not need to be reminded that disruption in the space has been numerous with up-and-coming tech (Web3 and AI), figuring out the "new normal" following a global pandemic, a war in Europe, as well as inflation. These are only a few of the things that have impacted retail businesses between 2020 and 2022.

The role of the IADS as an expert platform dedicated to the department store world is to be able to step away from the immediacy and the constant stream of news and be able to analyse the situation based on actual and reliable numbers.

This is the reason why the IADS launched the first edition of its exclusive Department Store global observatory, the IADS 100, in May 2021. This list, capturing data from a number of department store companies around the world, is intended to track the changes in the retail format and see how players in various markets are able to adapt to challenges and change. It is exclusively based on first-party information that the IADS sources itself.

In the latest rendition of the IADS 100 monitor gathering 2021 fiscal year figures, it has been clear that compiling comparable information across markets has proven to be more and more difficult. Many retailers are forecasting against 'normal' times and looking to beat 2019 figures rather than 2020 results. This is fair as department stores were forced to operate in limited ways or not at all for long periods of time, therefore typical KPIs from 2020 are no longer reliable when moving the business back to 'usual' times./nbsp]

What is hard about referring to 2019 figures rather than 2020 data is that there might not be a 'business as usual' reference to compare to anymore. It seems as if retailers are having to constantly adapt, therefore year over year comparisons need to be deeply analysed to be fully understood.

This report will attempt to understand some of these major changes across global retail markets. In order to make comparisons year over year, all exchange rates to Euros come from March 22, 2021, which was the date chosen during the initial IADS 100 release.

IADS Exclusive: The latest edition of the IADS 100: dynamics in the department store world from 2019 to 2021

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Highly regarded by many key players in the retail industry, Euroshop is a trade fair founded in 1966 at the initiative of the EHI Retail Institute and takes place every three years since the 1975 edition. The 2023 edition took place from February 26 to March 2, and the IADS attended the session to understand the remarkable trends emerging from this year's Euroshop fair, as the first post-pandemic edition.

IADS Exclusive: Euroshop 2023 – What to keep in mind from the first post-pandemic edition

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OpenAI, a research laboratory based in Los Angeles dedicated to Artificial Intelligence technology,  is the parent company of groundbreaking AI technologies such as DALL·E 2 which creates original art and images based on a text description, and Whisper which is a speech-to-text AI solution that can very accurately transcribe speech across languages.

ChatGPT is OpenAI's latest release that has turned heads. ChatGPT is a chatbot technology that has the ability to generate human-like text, which could bring value to businesses that want to add a layer of sophistication to their digital communications. The solution offers human-like responses to a variety of questions, admits when it makes a mistake, and can even help write or correct code.

ChatGPT has been creating a lot of buzz since OpenAI released the free version, and the company has also shared that they will be monetizing the tool by offering it as a cloud-based API (Application Programming Interface) that businesses and developers can integrate into their own applications and services. But what does this mean for retailers and businesses? Will such sophisticated chatbots bring added value to businesses in the short term or will the technology need more time to learn and be applied in a way that serves consumers and businesses without the fear of impacting brand image?

IADS Exclusive: Why ChatGPT is turning retail leaders' heads

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Benedict Evans is an independent analyst that looks at how tech impacts various industries including retail, advertising, media and others. He has spent six years with Andreessen Horowitz, one of the largest venture capital companies in the US, and prior to this experience, held various roles in strategy and business development in media and telecom companies, including in mobile phones when this was an "exciting, disruptive and sexy" industry.

Every year, he releases an extensive presentation on how he understands the tectonic shifts in technology and their impact on the other industries. The IADS reviewed his 2022 presentation and invited him as a guest speaker at the last IADS General Assembly in October 2022. Now that his 2023 presentation is released, "The New Gatekeepers", we review how, for him, acceleration in tech is not disrupting retail per se, but rather creating the needed context for the appearance of new models.

IADS Exclusive: Benedict Evans: from the great unbundling to the new gatekeepers

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*Galeries Lafayette made headlines earlier in 2022 when the "Wellness Galerie" opened on 3,000 sqm in the Paris Haussmann flagship. It was a step forward in terms of space allocated and percentage of services offered, compared to products. However, the French department store was not the first mover, as the wellness category had already been explored by other retailers in the world. Shifts in customer behaviour, focus on sustainability at large including self-care, and the need for retailers to diversify and explore new categories to stick to trends or generate new revenue streams… these are all reasons why retailers that are increasingly exploring or expanding their offer in this new category are multiple. Let's review how department stores are currently addressing wellness.*

IADS Exclusive: Wellness, the new feel good category for department store CEOs?

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The IADS travelled to Berlin last November to meet with Andre Maeder, the CEO of the KaDeWe Group, a few hours before the unveiling and celebration of the store's ultra-luxurious revamp after years of work. Berlin is not precisely coming to the top of mind when it comes to luxury retail when compared to London, Paris or Milan… yet. But while the city undoubtedly is a buoyant and energetic place, the upgrade of KaDeWe, combined with a shiny new airport, might very well be a game-changer and put Berlin on the international luxury map.

We review our store visit, showing the second largest department store in Europe in size remains true to its roots of acting as a local meeting point and a city landmark, and does not only rely on tourists for its future.

CHECK OUT THE COLLECTION OF PICTURES HERE

IADS Exclusive: KaDeWe, a place to gather

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The 2023 edition of the NRF Big Show took place on 14 – 17 January. After a virtual edition in 2021 and a limited reopening session in 2022, this edition showed that retail was back on track, with more than 1,100 exhibitors attending, to be compared with the 900+ previous record in 2019. As usual, a wide variety of themes were explored during this somewhat overwhelming event, and it is difficult, if not impossible, to recap all the conversations that took place.

We made a selection of presentations we attended, with a focus on department stores topics. Before doing so, looking at the big picture in terms of topics addressed also help understanding the general mood of the event:

*-    The economy was not top of mind even though there were echoes of inflation and recession. Speakers were excited by many other topics and the socio-economic context did not overshadow every presentation,

•    Metaverse was of course not a topic anymore but excitement about Web3 was very much palpable,
•    CSR and ESG were widely discussed and mentioned in almost each and every presentation, confirming that going green is not a choice anymore, as we have echoed in our last White Paper released this month,
•    Social media is becoming more personalized and difficult to operate as customers are torn between their will to log out in order to go on a digital diet, while balancing the fear of missing out on important news if they do so,
•    Exceptional customer experience goes deeper, and it does so through how consumers are treated, what they get, and also the information they are provided with, including informing them about the sustainability aspects of their transaction.*

Speakers we listened to during this event discussed retail transformation, physical stores and business models, customer experience, sustainability and retail media.

*Table of contents:

•    Leading through transformation and purpose: Macy's
•    The store of the future is less about the store and more about the business model: Havaianas, Sunglass Hut.
•    Retail strategies for major disruptors: GDR Insights
•    Curated, captivating, contemporary: a blueprint for physical stores: Neighborhood Goods, Studs,  CAMP
•    Building an innovative and personalized luxury experience: Farfetch, Harrods
•    Retail media networks: how the physical store will power retailers' next phase of growth: Albertsons, Nordstrom
•    Placing sustainability at the heart of retail: Holt Renfrew*

IADS Exclusive: A selection of interesting conferences from the NRF Big Show Event – January 2023

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BUY THE WHITE PAPER HERE

ACHETER LE LIVRE BLANC ICI

Sustainability in retail is hardly new and has become a major factor in business decisions and investments for retailers of all shapes and sizes. Consumers are increasingly becoming aware of the impacts that their purchases can have on emerging economies and garment workers and are consequentially becoming more demanding to understand how they can make impactful changes by harnessing their purchasing power. Governments are also taking a stance and demanding that retail industries start to release more accurate data that can be traceable through new laws and regulations that can have a large impact on profits and operations.

Retailers do not have the luxury of ignoring this topic. They hold responsibility as they translate customer desires and needs into market opportunities by acting as a bridge between consumers and suppliers. Department stores play an even more important role thanks to their historical and usually very central position in cities, allowing them to bring convenience and product curation to both local customers and tourists who view them as must-see places during their stay.

With such a position and impact, department stores are bound to transform into sustainable businesses offering consumers facilities, products and experiences that create net-positive environmental and social impacts. The IADS White Paper reveals how department stores are innovating and adapting to allow sustainability into their core business in order to remain relevant.

IADS White Paper: How sustainability is seeping into the foundation of department store businesses

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The IADS Academy programme, a 27 year-old tailor-made mentoring workshop open to our members' high potentials only, promotes cooperation and future orientation. Over the years, the IADS Academy have trained 180+ executives from 28 companies in 21 countries, some of whom reached top positions in member and non-member companies (for IADS only, 3 CEOs and 1 COO in 2020).

IADS Exclusive: 2022 IADS Academy report How to make Private Labels more profitable?

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IADS recently held a meeting all about the Men's Fashion brands to look out for in 2023. Based on market research, IADS and NellyRodi presented a curated selection of 10 brands that are trending right now. Check out our selection of these brands!

IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Men's Fashion

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Christmas Window Displays Photo Deck 

IADS consolidated 2022 holiday window displays from around the world in the latest Christmas window report. Have a look at how IADS members and other department stores are capturing the holiday spirit through their artistic and inspiring interpretations.

IADS Exclusive - Department Stores Christmas Windows 2022

IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics. This is an example of the themes the Association regularly addresses, and the topic of an article from the IADS members-only newsletter date 14 December 2022.

IADS interviewed one of the co-founders of Thirteen Lune, Nyakio Grieco, to understand more about the inclusive e-commerce beauty marketplace. Grieco created her first beauty brand 20 years ago to celebrate the sophistication of Africa in premium beauty, inspired by the teachings of her Kenyan grandparents who shared their beauty secrets with her. During the racial reckoning of 2020, she found herself and many other founders of color on various lists celebrating Black beauty founders.

This pushed her to start researching these brands and founders, which then led her to realize that many of these brands had very little distribution or representation in large retailers. This is what led her and her co-founder Patrick Herning (founder of plus-sized fashion brand 11 Honoré) to create Thirteen Lune to be the first of its kind truly inclusive retail beauty platform. The company has a 90/10 rule: 90% of all the brands carried are created by people of color around the globe who make products for people of all colors, and 10% of the brands are dedicated to fostering allyship. Thirteen Lune is deeply committed to building generational wealth in Black and Brown communities while helping to make the beauty industry more inclusive.

IADS Exclusive: Innovative Thinking Interview Thirteen Lune's fight for representation in the beauty space

IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics. This is an example of the themes the Association regularly addresses, and the topic of an article from the IADS members-only newsletter date 7 December 2022.