The IADS Academy programme, a 29-year-old tailor-made mentoring workshop open only to our members' high potentials, promotes cooperation and future orientation. Over the years, the IADS Academy has trained 190+ executives from 29 companies in 22 countries, some of whom reached top positions in member and non-member companies (for IADS member companies alone, 4 CEOs).

The 2024 topic was as follows:

AI and department store activities - Given the number of possible AI applications, how can retailers develop a decision-making tool (in terms of investments, teams and time)?

Once in the forecast, how can they decide and prioritise the right areas of application (examples: product development, customer loyalty, in-store operations, productivity-saving operations...)?

The following is an attempt to report all insights the Academy group considered and worked on during the journey to their final presentation shown to the IADS member CEOs.

IADS Exclusive: 2024 IADS Academy 

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The 2025 edition of the NRF Big Show took place last 12-15 January 2025. It was reportedly a record show, with an attendance of more than 40,000 visitors from 105 countries, 1,000 exhibitors and 500 journalists. Just like last year, the lines were long, and energy was palpable, even though one can wonder if traffic was evenly distributed over all days or if more action took place on day one, with the audience then disseminating in side events, meetings and visits during the following days.

IADS Exclusive: NRF Big Show 2025

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IADS recently held a meeting spotlighting the men's fashion brands and trends that stood out in 2024 and are set to lead the way in 2025. Backed by thorough market research, IADS and NellyRodi shared a handpicked selection of brands to keep on your radar for the year ahead.

Take a closer look at these standout names and explore the photos by clicking the button below!

IADS Exclusive: Brand Roundup: Men's Fashion 2024-2025

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Buy the white paper here

Since its inception in 1928, the IADS' purpose has been to coordinate information between department stores worldwide and research their activities to help them address the many challenges they must face. This translates into many responsibilities carried out by the IADS, all solely intended to provide insights to its members and help them have a broader understanding of the shifting business environment.

Every year since 2020, the IADS has produced a White Paper on a specific topic perceived as important for its members. In 2020, the purpose was to collect the learnings from the pandemic and how to make sure department stores would be prepared for the next crisis. The 2021 White Paper was dedicated to digital transformation and its impact on the organisation. In 2022, it was all about the development of sustainability, CSR and ESG in retail businesses. The 2023 edition was dedicated to retail media.

In 2024, the White Paper was dedicated to middle management. The IADS believes that middle managers' distinct blend of operational knowledge, leadership, and adaptability enables them to deal with retail challenges, but also address transformation and foster innovation. In an era of automation and AI, middle managers have strategic importance as they are pivotal in integrating new technologies, redesigning roles, and ensuring that human judgment and creativity complement technological advancements

IADS Exclusive: Middle managers, the heroes of retail transformation

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Last November, the IADS had the opportunity to visit the recently revamped Oxford Street John Lewis store with its higher management. This was the perfect opportunity to review John Lewis's recent history and see how this overhaul fits into a larger narrative of change for a company that has been going through difficult moments in its recent history.

IADS Exclusive: the revamped John Lewis Oxford Street store

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Last month, the IADS attended the presentation of the State of Retail 2024 - Europe: Transition and transformation in non-grocery retail, a report carried out by Eurocommerce in collaboration with McKinsey. Usually dedicated to grocery retail, this report addresses key trends shaping the specialty retail landscape in 2025 for the first time. It combines market data with surveys of 30 European executives and approximately 15,000 consumers across six European countries (France, Germany, Italy, Poland, Spain and the United Kingdom). The scope focuses on six retail categories: furniture and furnishings, DIY and hardware, consumer electronics, sporting goods, beauty and personal care, and pet care.

IADS Exclusive: Eurocommerce's State of Retail 2024 report

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IADS consolidated 2024 Holiday window displays from around the world in the latest Holiday window report. Have a look at how IADS members and other department stores are capturing the upcoming new seasons through their artistic and inspiring interpretations.

DEPARTMENT STORES WINDOWS, IN-STORE INSTALLATIONS, VISUALS & SOCIAL MEDIA SPOTS

IADS Exclusive: Department stores Holiday windows 2024

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*Known for its rapid economic growth during the past two decades, China is now navigating a period of moderated expansion. The current economic and societal landscape is marked by a complex interplay of challenges and opportunities: a significant real estate crisis, high youth unemployment rates, a shrinking and ageing population and newfound Asian pride. These factors are reshaping consumer behaviour and economic priorities within the country.

Despite these challenges, as stated by IADS' partner NellyRodi in their What's Up China conference held in Paris in October, there are sectors poised for growth, including sportswear, consumer health, and experiential travel. Understanding these dynamics and local macro-trends is crucial for businesses aiming to navigate the evolving Chinese market landscape effectively.*

IADS Exclusive: a look at trends and consumers in 2024's China

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The Drucker Forum, held annually since 2009, is a yearly opportunity to review management practice and question the state of research, a favourite combination from "management guru" Peter Drucker (1909-2005). The IADS attended the 16th edition of the Forum this month in Vienna. The theme was "the next knowledge work," questioning how organisations can deliver new value creation and innovation levels.

AI was obviously a centrepiece of the conversations, given the impact it has had so far on knowledge and innovation. While the overall conference themes were oriented towards knowledge workers, including researchers, scholars, and academics, it was interesting to relate them to the current situation in retail, where AI is seen as a transforming force for business models. Taking on what was discussed during the conference, AI appears to be, in fact, a pretext for more radical organisational transformations.

Paradoxically, achieving such transformation also does not systematically involve ground-breaking technological or intellectual innovation, as, many times, speakers were calling for a "back to the basics"movement in an updated way.

IADS Exclusive: At the Drucker Forum, AI is the opportunity for a radical organisational change

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Artificial intelligence (AI) is revolutionising retail, impacting everything from customer service to supply chain management. Yet, as outlined in our recent IADS Exclusive titled "AI in retail: why culture, values, and strategic goals matter more than tech," successful AI adoption involves more than simply implementing new tools. It requires deep alignment with an organisation's broader mission, culture, and values. This exclusive further addresses one of the most critical challenges in AI deployment—the "black box" problem, which refers to the challenge of interpreting or explaining how complex AI models arrive at their decisions. This piece explores how retail leaders can ensure transparency, accountability, and ethical use. Retailers can fully harness AI's potential by focusing on governance, explainability, and innovation while avoiding the risks of opaque decision-making systems. A lack of clarity can impact both customers and employees, undermining trust and creating potential issues with compliance and fairness. Our focus here is on bridging AI's capabilities with clear, human-centred governance by prioritising transparency and informed oversight to channel AI's potential for people-first innovation.

IADS Exclusive: Navigating the AI maze in retail beyond the black box

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Last October, Manor gathered its business partners to introduce them to its new Men's and Women's fashion concept, unveiled in the newly refurbished Basel store and supported by a press release issued the same day. It was the first time that Manor conducted such an event, which reminded of what Boyner does to keep connected with its local suppliers and partners in Turkey./nbsp]

For Manor, an IADS member since 1968, it was, however, an excuse for a much more comprehensive update about every category, the company itself, and where the CEO, Roland Armbruster, sees it in the coming years. This is why the format took the shape of a keynote, modelled after tech companies, with Armbruster, CMO Sandra Kottenauer and CFO Thomas Stocklin, taking the stage solo one after another to discuss product strategy, omnichannel updates, belief in more stores, retail media, and enhanced cooperation with brands and suppliers. The session ended with a Q&A with the three top executives, moderated by Sandra Kanzig, Communications and Marketing Director.

IADS Exclusive: Manor details its new concept and strategy

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Singapore, officially known as the Republic of Singapore, is a member of the world's exclusive club of city-states, along with Vatican City and Monaco. Singapore was even identified in 2015 by the Financial Times as "the world's only fully functioning city-state", with its currency, a large airport acting as a worldwide hub, one of the busiest maritime ports, and fully fledged armed forces (a feature that the other two do not have). Singapore's numbers are astonishing: it was the 4th most competitive economy in the world in 2023, one of the world's very few countries to be rated AAA by S&P, Moody's and Fitch altogether (and the only one in Asia), the second densest city in the world after Monaco, the second country in the world in terms of being a business-friendly place. 100% of its citizens are equipped with smartphones (a feature that even South Korea, an ultra-connected market, does not reach).

Singapore's reputation in terms of productivity is well-established. Still, combined with tourism (Singapore is the 5th most visited city in the world and the second in Asia, thanks to its "City in Nature" positioning promoting sustainable tourism), it becomes a natural destination for anyone versed in retail. The state in its current form is 107 years younger than the first department store to have opened there, Robinsons in 1858, when Singapore's population was 80,000, of which 50% were Chinese.

Today, retail represents 3% of the national workforce and 1.4% of Singapore's GDP, serving nearly 6m inhabitants. Most of its iconic department stores are located on Orchard Road, which gives visitors the feeling of seeing double, given the ubiquity of luxury and fashion labels there. This situation raises some serious questions regarding the still-operating department stores (Robinson's closed for good in 2021): how are they differentiating? What is up-and-coming in such a competitive retail landscape?

IADS Exclusive: How Singapore's new shopping experiences give a glimpse of the future of retail

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IADS consolidated 2024 Fall window displays from around the world in the latest Fall window report. Have a look at how IADS members and other department stores are capturing the upcoming new seasons through their artistic and inspiring interpretations.

DEPARTMENT STORES WINDOWS, IN-STORE INSTALLATIONS, VISUALS & SOCIAL MEDIA SPOTS

IADS Exclusive: Department stores Fall windows 2024

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Department stores have experienced a decline in sales and prominence over the past decades. This decline is attributed to changing consumer habits and the rise of e-commerce, which has provided consumers with more convenient shopping options. Many department stores have struggled to adapt to these changes, resulting in financial difficulties and store closures. On the other hand, direct-to-consumer (DTC) brands have revolutionised the retail industry by cutting out intermediaries and selling directly to consumers. This approach has allowed them to offer better prices than regular brands, personalised experiences, proximity with their community of customers and greater convenience. Many global brands have also considered adopting a DTC approach to grow margins and control their image and prices without withdrawing from department stores and multi-brand retailers altogether. However, this new business model puts additional pressure on department stores. Nike is the best example of the success and limits of the DTC business model, showing how partnering with multi-brand retailers is still very much relevant and efficient.

IADS Exclusive: Nike, a cautionary tale on the DTC business model

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The rapid evolution of artificial intelligence (AI) technology represents a dual-edged sword for the retail and department store sectors. While AI promises to revolutionise operations, its integration into the corporate fabric demands more than mere technological upgrades—it requires a strategic alignment with each organisation's unique culture, values, and broader objectives. As data becomes the new "gold" and advances in hardware capabilities make previously inconceivable AI applications possible, retailers are presented with tremendous opportunities and significant challenges. This article looks at how department stores can effectively use AI to boost operations and support their mission while considering the financial and risk challenges involved.

IADS Exclusive: AI in retail: why culture, values and strategic goals matter more than tech?

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IADS recently held a meeting on sportswear. Based on market research, NellyRodi and The Style Pulse presented the most innovative brands from different segments in sportswear including outdoor, activewear, athleisure, and more.

Check out our selection of these brands and the pictures by clicking the button below!

IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Sportswear 2024

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Even though the department store changed its name to Galeries Lafayette more than 30 years ago, Annecy's1 residents kept on calling it Nouvelles Galeries. This is why Citynove (Galeries Lafayette Group's real estate arm)2 revived the old name to develop a shopping centre around the existing department store. But its drive-to-store strategy is fully anchored in today's retail: Citynove's president, Eric Costa, described it as a pilot project for the group. The goal is to adapt the department store format to the local market's realities, client expectations, and competition to create an optimal environment for the stores to evolve. This approach reflects the group's strategy of owning most of its stores, allowing for easier transformation and adaptation. Considered by Galeries Lafayette as an illustration of what tomorrow's department store could look like, the whole project aims at becoming a hybrid place where people come to shop and live. Officially completed in October 2023, here's what the place has to offer.

IADS Exclusive - Nouvelles Galeries in Annecy: a case for tier-II cities department stores 

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*IADS member Boyner Grup unveiled its new strategy in 2022 to establish itself as a genuine "multi-brand lifestyle company". This came with a new approach to merchandising, including the introduction of more international brands, less reliance on private labels, the exploration of new categories, including F&B, the introduction of new types of marketing and events in Turkey, and the launch of a new store concept, in Cadde, on the Asian part of the city. We reported this new concept and its many innovations in a previous IADS Exclusive.

Since then, Boyner Grup has been relentless in its efforts to improve and expand this store concept to other locations, including the iconic Istinye Park. This commitment to innovation and improvement is a testament to the company's dedication to providing a unique and engaging retail experience. As the second major iteration of the store concept, it includes some evolutions based on the key learnings from the Cadde store, reviewed in this IADS Exclusive article.*

IADS Exclusive: Boyner evolves its new store concept in Istinye Park

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Last May, LVMH signed a deal with Alibaba, cementing the luxury group's omnichannel, data and digital capabilities. Through this agreement, LVMH will access Alibaba's technology and investments, especially in AI capabilities, allowing luxury brands to be more accurate and personalised than ever. This is not unexpected: LVMH and Alibaba had already partnered in cloud data management for five years before changing gears. In addition, Alibaba is considered as a "global partner" by LVMH in a context where data is key to properly addressing Chinese customers' needs, wherever they are in the world.

This is why the IADS interviewed Nicolas Cano, Fashion and Luxury Business Development Director at Tmall Luxury, a division of Alibaba, to understand more about the Alibaba ecosystem, how it completes LVMH's expertise in the region, and what the luxury behemoth gets from this deal. He has over 15 years of international expertise in the luxury sector. He started his career at L'Oréal in the Luxury Division as a Product Manager before joining LVMH in 2005. He worked at Dior Homme, Christian Lacroix as Commercial Development Manager for Europe,and then EMEA. In 2010, Nicolas joined the Chalhoub Group to develop the Chanel franchise network in the Middle East. In 2016, he took over the General Management of the Symphony Group, the Alabbar Group's retail branch, deploying an omnichannel strategy and opening exclusive concept stores in the extension of the Dubai Mall. Since May 2018, Nicolas Cano has held the Fashion & Luxury Business Development Director position at Alibaba Group. He leads the e-commerce distribution of major Houses on Alibaba's B2C platform, Tmall & Tmall Luxury Pavilion. Nicolas graduated from the L'Ecole Superieure de Commerce de Nantes (AUDENCIA).

IADS Exclusive: how Tmall fosters a new approach towards ultra-personalisation in luxury

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Sustainability is not just a buzzword; it's a pressing issue that demands our attention. Brands and retailers have put much effort into more responsible practices, but can they keep up with the increasingly stringent regulations? Are customers truly aligning their actions with their sustainability beliefs? IADS delves into the world of sustainability in fashion, exploring its meaning, how fashion brands and department stores can incorporate sustainable practices, and addressing the above questions.

IADS Exclusive: Sustainability in fashion

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*2023 has been a busy year for Magasin du Nord. With an unwavering commitment to meeting the evolving needs of its clientele, Magasin du Nord has introduced improvements and services such as BOPIS (Buy Online, Pick Up In Store) and harnessed cutting-edge technology through the implementation of smartwatch-equipped staff. New service lounges gathering all store services allowed Magasin du Nord to offer better and more efficient customer service. While retail operations were refined to achieve excellence in customer service and increase KPIs such as the conversion rate and the UPT, Magasin du Nord also launched layout changes and visual merchandising upgrades in their 3 most important stores (see the pictures review attached).

With the entire retail industry currently hoping that new technologies and approaches such as AI and retail media will help it reinvent itself, streamline, optimise operations and bring in new sources of revenue, the efforts recently made by Magasin du Nord (a company not shy when it comes to technological innovation) also show that to thrive in the new world, fundamentals have to be right. There is no point in building a state-of-the-art technological pyramid if the foundations are not well grounded.*

IADS Exclusive: The road to retail excellence

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IADS recently held a meeting on the women's fashion. Based on market research, NellyRodi and The Style Pulse presented the most innovative brands from different segments in cosmetics and beauty including must haves, on trend, hidden gems, and more.

Check out our selection of these brands and the pictures by clicking the button below!

IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Women's fashion 2024

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It is not every day that a retail CEO knows and plans his exit as the leader of a retail brand, but this is precisely what made Philip Mountford, the current CEO of Hunkemöller, an interesting guest speaker for the IADS 63rd General Assembly in London last November.

Philip Mountford's career in fashion retail spans significant roles across Europe and the UK. He started at Simpson Piccadilly as a purchasing director, then advanced to senior positions in renowned companies. As CEO of Moss Bros Group PLC, he led a major menswear retailer with an extensive store network and franchise partnerships with brands like Hugo Boss and Canali. He also held the Managing Director role at Gianni Versace, focusing on regions including the UK, Ireland, and Scandinavia, and had pivotal roles at Nautica and Daks PLC. Most notably, as CEO of Hunkemöller, Europe's largest lingerie brand, he grew the business to an €800 million valuation, with e-commerce driving 40% of sales. Mountford is set to leave Hunkemöller in early 2024 after a transformative 15-year tenure. Before stepping down, he was able to address IADS CEOs and answer their burning questions with candid and open responses.

IADS Exclusive: Paris' Champs-Elysées and the Olympics

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*Paris' Champs-Élysées have a rich history. Originally designed in 1667 by Le Nôtre, the famous French architect created a long tree-lined promenade starting from the Tuileries Palace. In the 20th century, the avenue experienced spectacular growth with the arrival of major stores, cinemas, and famous cafés such as Fouquet's. These establishments attracted an international clientele, earning the Champs-Élysées the reputation of "the most beautiful avenue in the world" where something was always happening. Luxury brands opened stores, transforming the avenue into a high-end shopping area./nbsp]

However, starting in the 1980s, the avenue began to experience a period of decline, luxury brands gradually gave way to more mainstream stores such as McDonald's, Zara and H&M, leading to a gradual dissatisfaction among Parisians. Between 1990 and the 2000s, many shopping arcades, once the pride of the Champs-Élysées, were deserted. The avenue lost its lustre, failing to attract the sophisticated clientele it once did. Allowing easy access from the suburbs, the opening of the regional train also changed the avenue's visitor profile, reinforcing its mass consumption image. More recently, the avenue faced years of "yellow jackets" protests, strikes and the pandemic, which drove away potential customers.

But the renewed appeal of the most famous avenue in the world is confirmed: there is a Champs-Elysées Renaissance.

Welcoming 300,000 pedestrians on busy days, the avenue is transforming into a prime showcase for brands. As measured by Knight Frank, the avenue recorded 46 brand movements in 2022 and 2023, especially in the sports and luxury sectors: 46% were new store openings, and 54% were relocations, expansions, or renovations. The movements recorded over the past 2 years involved 24% luxury brands and 17% sportswear brands.

Who will win the attention of tourists coming to the Olympics? Considering their investments, luxury and sport-style brands seem best positioned. Moreover, in the long run, who will win the 110 million people passing through the Champs-Élysées each year? Will the Olympics bring additional business?*

IADS Exclusive: Paris' Champs-Elysées and the Olympics

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