IADS Exclusive Insights

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IADS Exclusive: What to ask ourselves when considering the Saks / Neiman Marcus merger?

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
July 15, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: What to ask ourselves when considering the Saks / Neiman Marcus merger?

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
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July 15, 2024

In early July, Hudson's Bay Company, the parent company of Saks Fifth Avenue, announced a plan to acquire Neiman Marcus for $2,65 billion. This intention seems logical in a crowded market that calls for more consolidation.


Given the radical difference between the two companies, this would have already raised some eyebrows if the news had been limited to Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue merging. However, conversations revolved instead around Amazon and Salesforce being involved in this deal.


While the merger is under review by the Federal Trade Commission, and therefore, everything is still being determined, this planned merger raises many questions when considering the context. While the IADS does not pretend to have a crystal ball, this Exclusive aims to review everything at stake and assess the challenges and opportunities the plan opens


IADS Exclusive: What to ask ourselves, when considering the Saks / Neiman Marcus merger?


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: K11 and The Hyundai demonstrate that reinventing the retail experience is not enough, as proper communication is crucial

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
July 8, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: K11 and The Hyundai demonstrate that reinventing the retail experience is not enough, as proper communication is crucial

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
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July 8, 2024

*Day after day, retail analysts remind us that the in-store shopping experience needs to be reinvented to appeal to the younger, tech-savvy generations and lure them into brick-and-mortar stores. Indeed, innovative projects are sprouting worldwide, each pushing the boundaries of what a retail space represents by introducing fresh and novel concepts.

However, creating a compelling physical retail experience is merely half the battle. Many endeavours have tried and failed, not due to a lack of ingenuity but simply because their ability to communicate and highlight their inventiveness effectively was lacking. In the US, customers struggled to appreciate Showfields beyond the much-touted slide fully. Pioneering concepts like b8ta in Manhattan (now closed) or WOW in Madrid presented too many ideas simultaneously, making it arduous to convey their essence engagingly to customers.

Let's examine two prominent large-scale projects that have successfully reinvented the retail experience in recent years: K11 Musea in Hong Kong and The Hyundai in Seoul. Both aimed to revolutionize shopping for younger generations, but how did they manage to articulate and bring to life their innovative concepts effectively*


IADS Exclusive: K11 and The Hyundai demonstrate that reinventing the retail experience is not enough


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - JD Sports' new flagship store on Paris' Champs-Elysées Avenue: how to make a difference in a crowded area?

July 1, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - JD Sports' new flagship store on Paris' Champs-Elysées Avenue: how to make a difference in a crowded area?

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July 1, 2024

In the last few months, brands have been rushing to open stores on Avenue des Champs-Elysées, hoping to catch a chunk of tourist wallets, especially the ones coming for the 2024 Olympics. Sports brands are no exception and tend to settle in retail spaces in the avenue's central and lower sections. England-based retailer JD Sports chose another option and opened its new global flagship store in the avenue's upper section (number 118), across the street from the Louis Vuitton flagship store and not far away from Saint Laurent and Cartier. While the store was opened by Brazilian soccer legend and Nike brand ambassador Ronaldinho in April 2024, the group said it will be "continuing its run as the globally recognised king of the high street. JD's new store offers the brand's latest innovations in digital technology and merchandising and will provide visitors access to all the hottest brands and latest launches."


JD Sports was founded in 1981 in Bury, in the North West of England, with one shop, John David Sports. The JD group now accounts for more than 3,300 stores worldwide, including 100 in France and 29 JD Sports stores in the Paris region only. In terms of sales, JD Sports claimed in March 2024 to outperform a challenging market with a 4% like-for-like sales growth in the financial year ending 3 February 2024, reaching £10.5 billion, with an 8% organic growth. The profit before tax is expected to reach £915 million.


The retailer's new flagship store aims to provide an immersive shopping experience to customers and establish itself as one of the sports champions on Champs-Elysées. Who will be the customers visiting the store? What will they find there to differentiate themselves in the crowded area?


IADS Exclusive - JD Sports' new flagship store on Paris' Champs-Elysées Avenue


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Dover Street Market Paris: the rebirth of independent fashion?

June 17, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Dover Street Market Paris: the rebirth of independent fashion?

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June 17, 2024

After years of speculation, Dover Street Market, the renowned fashion concept store founded by Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and husband Adrian Joffe, finally opened a new location in Paris. Located in the Marais area, the new store is the 7th location to open over the last 20 years after Tokyo, London, Beijing, New York, Los Angeles and Singapore (not to mention Dover Street Market Parfums opened in Paris in October 2019). Kawakubo and Joffe After took over the building in 2019, but soon after, they decided to wait until the pandemic was over and tourism normalised to open the store. From 2021 to 2023, the gorgeous 17th-century Hôtel de Coulanges (once the house of French writer Madame de Sevigné) temporarily housed a non-profit cultural hub ("le 35-37", after the street number the building is located at) hosting art exhibitions, fashion shows, temporary fashion markets and art performances. All these events supported the anticipation and excitement around the space opening and secured a break on taxes and rent. After this long delay, the much-anticipated store finally opened to consumers on Friday, 24 May 2024. What can one expect from this latest Dover Street Market family addition? Paris is seen as the fashion capital, but will the store succeed in the long run?


IADS Exclusive - Dover Street Market Paris: the rebirth of independent fashion?


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - At VivaTechnology 2024, AI starts to be used in concrete and exciting use cases for retailers

Elisabetta Falco Beccalli
June 17, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - At VivaTechnology 2024, AI starts to be used in concrete and exciting use cases for retailers

Elisabetta Falco Beccalli
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June 17, 2024

The IADS was thrilled to attend the 2024 Viva Technology conference last May in Paris, eagerly seeking out key trends and exciting startups that could bring value to our members. VivaTech 2024 broke new ground with record-breaking attendance of 165,000 visitors, a 10% increase over last year. The event buzzed with energy, attracting 13,500 startups from over 25 business sectors and over 2,000 investors. One hundred twenty countries were represented, solidifying VivaTech's central position on the global tech panorama.


At VivaTech 2024, the interaction between startups and tech champions highlighted a significant trend in the tech industry. The event not only emphasised established tech companies' dominance but also showcased the boundless innovative potential of startups.


Key themes included artificial intelligence, retail, climate technology, and mobility solutions. Despite the prominence of major corporations, the event still celebrated start-ups. VivaTech 2024 facilitated connections between startups, investors, and corporate partners, promoting an ecosystem where emerging companies could flourish alongside tech champions. This balance indicates that while tech champions are undeniably powerful, the startup dream is far from over. Startups continue to be essential drivers of innovations, especially in niche markets and emerging technology sectors. Our non-exhaustive review below highlights the most relevant retail trends we spotted this year for our members.


IADS Exclusive - At VivaTechnology 2024, AI starts to be used in concrete and exciting use cases for retailers


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Boyner: when a retailer differentiates differently

Selvane Mohandas du Menil
June 3, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Boyner: when a retailer differentiates differently

Selvane Mohandas du Menil
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June 3, 2024

Brand differentiation through a strong and relevant positioning is commonplace. The leading brands are built-in with clear added value and customer promise, meaning that the best-in-class are often pre-empting a whole category in the minds of customers. For example, Louis Vuitton is linked to "the art of travel" (a phrase which encapsulates its origins as a trunk manufacturer, its positioning as a luxury brand, and connotes an idea of freedom of movement), Nike relates to sports and performance, and Emirates Airline with the notion of travelling in style. This is true as well for branded retailers: Apple's appeal is all about uncompromising quality high-tech lifestyle, Zara about high fashion at affordable prices, and The Gap about quality apparel at the right price.


For brands and branded retailers, such differentiation in the minds of customers is achieved through heavy marketing investments, allowing them to establish a clear positioning which is at the core of their business.


Third-party retailers, such as department stores, are in a different position, especially for the larger ones. For a long time, they were seen by both businesses and customers as "houses of brands" and, as such, able to talk to anyone, proposing "everything under the same roof" (JCPenney was promising in 2006 "It's all inside. For all the sides of you", and well before that, Harrods' motto was "all things for all people, everywhere" in Latin). For that reason, they were positioning themselves as being a crossroads (in Paris, well-known slogans like "everything can be found at La Samaritaine" and "there is always something going on at Le Bon Marché"), places of constant discovery (Manor's slogan is "Special Everyday", Isetan Shinjuku's promise in the 1960s was "everyday is new. Isetan is for fashion"), or pre-empted the authoritative position of being the leading fashion destination (Harvey Nichols slogan in the 1950s was "London's leading fashion house", Peek & Cloppenburg was "House of Fashion" in 2000, and Dillard's "the style of your life" in 2009). The notion of price was also important: in 2001 Arnotts was promising to be "the heart of style and value" while John Lewis has long committed to "never knowingly undersell".


However, a brand promise based on being the place to be, at the edge of fashion, or at the best price, is quite difficult to sustain in the digital age when the Internet precisely allows the creation of massive digital marketplaces, giving access to the most obscure fashion in a millisecond, and always with the possibility to compare prices with retailers across the planet.


Some department stores have resisted thanks to their historical advantage: Harrods or KaDeWe's reputation about luxury is universal (KaDeWe's slogan in 2004 was "the fine art of first-class shopping") while Galeries Lafayette is recognized as a place where fashion is much more than a mere promise, by giving access to every trend from across the planet.


But what happens when the goal is to pre-empt a new market, far from the historical moneymakers that luxury, fashion, cosmetics, or home categories have represented for department stores?


Last September, for the first time, IADS member Boyner, in Turkey, hostedtheir "Boyner Dynamic" event: 3 days of outdoor activities and gatherings to establish Boyner as the leading lifestyle destination in the country. The catch? Nothing was to be sold. It was all about gathering people together and animating a community. Let's review it.


IADS Exclusive - Boyner: when a retailer differentiates differently


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Cosmetics, Beauty & Wellness 2024

Christine Montard
May 29, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Cosmetics, Beauty & Wellness 2024

Christine Montard
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May 29, 2024

IADS recently held a meeting on the Cosmetics & Beauty sector. Based on market research, NellyRodi and The Style Pulse presented the most innovative brands from different segments in cosmetics and beauty including skincare, makeup, haircare, fragrances, and more.


Check out our selection of these brands and the pictures by clicking the button below!


IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Cosmetics, Beauty & Wellness 2024


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - When department stores morph to escape copycats

Christine Montard
May 20, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - When department stores morph to escape copycats

Christine Montard
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May 20, 2024

The future of department stores has become a topic that experts and media have expressed their views on many times, predicting the end of the model. While the so-called "retail apocalypse" didn't happen, the retail landscape is indeed changing with a long list of mid-range store chains collapsing everywhere in the world and department stores evolving their model. With COVID-19, they showed agility to reinvent themselves by developing online capabilities overnight, updating their product offer and including more experiences and services to differentiate from the competition.


However, the transformation is not over yet. We are seeing an increase in the number of department stores resembling malls, favouring luxury over the idea of a 'department store for all'. Conversely, branded retailers are increasingly resembling department stores. In that regard and following a premiumization strategy, Zara's most recent stores are taking cues from the department store playbook. Also, Marks & Spencer has emerged as a winner in the UK retail landscape.


Is that a natural evolution from both sides? Now that branded retailers are taking on the department stores' codes, what's in for department stores themselves? Are there any fundamental risks if they lose their factor of differentiation, or is it just a not-so-important question of display and presentation? Some department store companies have dropped the traditional way of presenting products by section and opted for a very immersive approach, becoming very large concept stores in the process. Is the future approach of department stores to merge customer journeys into innovative store concepts, to remain destinations for customers and differentiate from copycats who contribute to commodifying their once-typical approach?


IADS Exclusive - When department stores morph to escape copycats


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - What retailers can learn from Taylor Swift's success

Christine Montard
May 13, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - What retailers can learn from Taylor Swift's success

Christine Montard
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May 13, 2024

Have you heard about Taylor Swift, a singer with a global impact?


Last year, NYU announced a class based on her. In March and November 2023, Stanford and Harvard respectively announced they would do the same. Swift holds the record for most songs to ever chart on the US Billboard Hot 100 (188 songs), and in fall 2022 she became the first artist to own the entire Top 10 simultaneously. Finally, Taylor Swift's 2023 "Eras Tour" is the first tour to gross $1 billion, surpassing Elton John (the previous record holder with $939 million for his "Farewell Yellow Brick Road" tour).


In one way or another, Taylor Swift has amazed the world with her music, persona and business skills for over a decade. Sparked by this buzz, the IADS took a look at this phenomenon to figure out how exactly this popstar branded herself and her music and how she became a master in influence. Her highly engaged community of fans is interesting to look into to understand how emotion is a key factor in enhancing loyalty.


IADS Exclusive - What retailers can learn from Taylor Swift's success


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - World Retail Congress 2024 Conference Report

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
April 30, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - World Retail Congress 2024 Conference Report

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
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April 30, 2024

The IADS attended the 2024 edition of the World Retail Congress, held in Paris from April 16th to 18th, which gathered 850 participants from 400 companies across 16 countries. During this edition, the Association had the privilege to moderate a roundtable between the CEO of Galeries Lafayette, Nicolas Houzé, and the CEO of Harrods, Michael Ward.


This report is a selection of the most relevant insights gathered for our members.


Table of contents


**1- Introduction: the difficult task of forecasting in 2024 (Deloitte, Blackstone, VML)

2- But what is retail anyway? A fresh perspective (Springstudios)

3- How to win the new generation customers (Claire's, MARS Wrigley, Pepe Jeans)…

4- …in a time of mass distraction (Adidas)?

5- What to expect from AI in retail? (Keystone, Decathlon, Google Cloud)

6- The human factor: purpose, planet, profits… and communities (ThredUp, REI, Milani Cosmetics)

7- A look at 3 retailers set in motion: Sephora, Printemps, Myer

8- The future of department stores: the IADS interviews Harrods and Galeries Lafayette

9- Interesting Quotes**


IADS Exclusive - World Retail Congress 2024 Conference Report


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Building a corporate sustainability playbook

Mary Jane Shea
April 22, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Building a corporate sustainability playbook

Mary Jane Shea
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April 22, 2024

The IADS recently attended a webinar hosted by Bain & Company covering the topic of 'Monetizing sustainability – Navigating ESG pricing' where the relationship between profit and sustainability was discussed. As we have covered in our previous IADS Exclusive on how retailers can turn sustainability regulations into opportunities, sustainability directives are here to stay and will only become stricter, but this should not stop retailers from finding ways to make such changes a win-win situation. In the same vein, the IADS also recently studied the key takeaways from Adam Werbach's book 'Strategy for Sustainability' which explores how businesses can integrate sustainability principles into their strategies to create long-term value. Building on the principles and ideas discussed by Bain & Company and in the book by Werbach, we explore some of these ways to build a positive and profitable groundwork for retail businesses while keeping sustainability topics at the heart of the company, which in these days, is key to survival.


IADS Exclusive - Building a corporate sustainability playbook


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Beyond simplification: how to digitally transform a business in 120 days

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
April 15, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Beyond simplification: how to digitally transform a business in 120 days

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
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April 15, 2024

The IADS attended the Global Peter Drucker Forum, an annual event organized in Vienna, Austria, last December. This event is an international management conference dedicated to the management philosophy of Peter Drucker, a management professor, writer, and consultant, often referred to as a "management guru". The conferences held during the Forum aimed at making a reconciliation between pure research (systematically based on Peter Drucker's findings) and practice, by having on-stage academics and executives.


While the whole session was dedicated to exploring the notion of "creative resilience" in an age of discontinuity, two specific talks raised our attention, as they challenged some notions that are taken for granted in business :


  • Simplify to win,
  • Plan a transformation process,
  • Have the appropriate individuals carry this process.


What if the simplification process has become a poison for businesses in a world where uncertainty is everywhere and every day, at every level? What if the business transformation was not a process, but a never-ending moment, because its true nature is more psychological than measurable in actions? Finally, what if CEOs could not count on dedicated individuals to carry out a digital transformation process due to its very evanescent nature?


While we already reviewed these notions in our 2022 White Paper, "Smarter department store organizations", by especially wondering if the structure had always followed strategy in the past for department stores, these two conferences gave an interesting angle that comes as an ideal complement to the conclusions we made at that time.


IADS Exclusive - Beyond simplification: how to digitally transform a business in 120 days


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Coca-Cola's refreshing retail strategies for navigating Europe's diverse market

Mary Jane Shea
April 8, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Coca-Cola's refreshing retail strategies for navigating Europe's diverse market

Mary Jane Shea
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April 8, 2024

In 2023, despite a promising start to the year, IADS members experienced a significant turning point in the retail market following the summer. This shift was further exacerbated by terrorist attacks in Israel in October 2023, leading to global economic concerns, particularly regarding inflation and growth in 2024. These apprehensions were evident during the IADS General Assembly in November, prompting IADS to invite The Coca-Cola Company to share their insights with IADS CEOs for 2024 and the FMCG (Fast Moving Consumer Goods) market.


The presentation was delivered by Nikos Koumettis, President of the Europe Operating Unit at Coca-Cola, and Rami Sabanegh, Vice President of Strategy at Coca-Cola Europe. Nikos Koumettis began his career in Marketing and Sales, working for Kraft Jacobs Suchard, Elgeka and Papastratos/Phillip Morris, and joined Coca-Cola in 2001 as General Manager for Greece and Cyprus. Since then, he has built a wealth of experience in several international roles. Similarly, Rami Sabanegh has an impressive list of credentials and uses his extensive knowledge of management consulting as a member of Coca-Cola's European leadership team, where he leads business analysis, strategy, insights and strategic transformation for 40 countries. Together, they shared their expertise on the European customer landscape, macroeconomic factors, sustainability, technological shifts and their company's extensive reach, serving 500 million customers across a wide product range.


IADS Exclusive - Coca-Cola's refreshing retail strategies for navigating Europe's diverse market


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - How to make impact and maintain a responsible vision in difficult times

Christine Montard
April 1, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - How to make impact and maintain a responsible vision in difficult times

Christine Montard
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April 1, 2024

The IADS is at a crossroads when it comes to helping its members, by addressing their most operational questions and helping them to address current and future challenges. Being sustainable is certainly a critical one and it requires means, energy and time, which is even more difficult in crisis moments. The IADS invited Andrea Baldo, CEO of the Danish responsible brand GANNI, to share his views on the best ways to make true impacts and maintain a responsible vision.


Shareholders are usually not happy to reduce profits to fund sustainable changes, customers ask for sustainable products but are not ready to pay the price for them, and businesses are not happy to see governments talking about taxing people to fund the green transition. However, Baldo argues that this is the responsibility of CEOs to address the future, even if this means making sure investors are aligned on this vision too. For him, becoming sustainable in the future is much more important than digital transformation. He explains how CEOs can fight sustainability systemic issues by taking risks, choosing realistic actions over hollow claims and always favouring adaptation and innovation.


IADS Exclusive - How to make impact and maintain a responsible vision in difficult times


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Home & Decor 2024

Christine Montard
March 25, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Home & Decor 2024

Christine Montard
|
March 25, 2024

IADS recently held a meeting on the home and decor sector. Based on market research, NellyRodi and The Style Pulse presented the most innovative brands from different segments in home and decor including furniture, tableware, decor, home appliances and electronics.


Check out our selection of these brands and the pictures by clicking the button below!


IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Home & Decor 2024


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Harnessing the ecosystem advantage to reinvent retail

Mary Jane Shea
March 18, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Harnessing the ecosystem advantage to reinvent retail

Mary Jane Shea
|
March 18, 2024

Michael G Jacobides is a strategy professor at London Business School as well as the Lead Advisor of Evolution Ltd, a boutique advisory firm helping clients adjust to a shifting context. A leading expert on business ecosystems, value migration and how firms navigate shifting, digital environments, he is Academic Advisor to the BCG's Henderson Institute and has recently been a Visiting Scholar at the New York Fed and Visiting Fellow at Cambridge. . During the IADS 64th General Assembly held in 2023, Jacobides addressed IADS member CEOs to discuss the reinvention of retail and department stores, the foundations and evolution of ecosystems, and how these can be harnessed by retail businesses.Michael G Jacobides is a strategy professor at London Business School as well as the Lead Advisor of Evolution Ltd, a boutique advisory firm helping clients adjust to a shifting context. A leading expert on business ecosystems, value migration and how firms navigate shifting, digital environments, he is Academic Advisor to the BCG's Henderson Institute and has recently been a Visiting Scholar at the New York Fed and Visiting Fellow at Cambridge. . During the IADS 64th General Assembly held in 2023, Jacobides addressed IADS member CEOs to discuss the reinvention of retail and department stores, the foundations and evolution of ecosystems, and how these can be harnessed by retail businesses.


IADS Exclusive - Harnessing the ecosystem advantage to reinvent retail


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: What to expect from the newly renovated Sephora Paris Champs-Elysées store?

Christine Montard
March 13, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: What to expect from the newly renovated Sephora Paris Champs-Elysées store?

Christine Montard
|
March 13, 2024

Sephora is one of the largest distributors of LVMH perfumes and cosmetics, which generated 7.7 billion euros in turnover in 2022 with 3,000 stores in 35 countries. After the recent launch of the retailers' new concept dubbed 'Store of the Future' in Singapore, London, Shanghai and Wuhan, Sephora reopened the Paris Champs-Elysées store at the end of October 2023 after 6.5 months of renovations. As the second biggest Sephora (behind Dubai and ahead of New York's Soho store) and considering its prime location, this refurbishment is strategic to the brand. Also, Sephora will be an official partner of the Olympic torch relay during the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. The perspective of such a major event called for the "reinvent[ion of] the prestige beauty flagship experience", as Guillaume Motte, the retailer's President and CEO puts it.


It is the first major remodelling of the 1,200 sqm location since it opened in 1996. Back then, Chafik Studio (a guest speaker at the IADS in 2022) designed the store with what was already a true and unprecedented customer-centric vision. The renovation budget is a well-kept secret, but it is the largest investment from Sephora Europe.


Before the renovation, the store accounted for 12 million visitors per year (10,000 daily, compared to 20,000 for the Eiffel Tower), with a quarter coming from outside France. The store sells a product every 15 seconds. In total, 200 people work at the flagship, with 50 to 60 people per day. This does not include the hundred or so brand ambassadors working daily.


The IADS visited the store to see what it has to offer. The store concept has evolved and is more relevant. The store offers a clear segmentation, personalised services and digital features, only if they are considered essential to customers.


IADS Exclusive: What to expect from the newly renovated Sephora Paris Champs-Elysées store?


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: How Thailand's Central Group fosters loyalty

Selavane Mohands du Ménil
March 6, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: How Thailand's Central Group fosters loyalty

Selavane Mohands du Ménil
|
March 6, 2024

The International Association of Department Stores (IADS) had the opportunity to visit Thailand in 2023, providing a chance to review the myriad of innovations that are consistently emerging in this specific retail market. Thailand, particularly Bangkok with its state-of-the-art stores like The Mall Group's Emquartier, is renowned for an exceptional focus on customer service and offers valuable insights and lessons for European retailers.


In an era where customer loyalty is increasingly crucial for department stores, the approach of Central Group in Thailand stood out. They have established a business unit with its own profit and loss accountability, solely dedicated to cultivating customer loyalty. This initiative extends well beyond the confines of their own operations, presenting intriguing elements that could be of interest to external observers.


Therefore, we explore in this article Central Group's business strategies, focusing on their main flagship stores - Central @ CentralWorld and Central Chidlom. These establishments are integral parts of a larger ecosystem where loyalty is not just a concept but a tangible, profitable asset. This strategy enhances Central Group's engagement with its customers and strengthens its relationships with brand business partners.


IADS Exclusive: How Thailand's Central Group fosters loyalty


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: Bain & Company - How to win in the Future of Retail

Mary Jane Shea
February 28, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: Bain & Company - How to win in the Future of Retail

Mary Jane Shea
|
February 28, 2024

Nick Greenspan, the UK Retail and Consumer Products practices partner at Bain & Company has deep expertise in the digital environment, thanks to 35 years of consulting experience with many of the UK's leading online businesses. His focus is on helping clients with corporate transformations, strategy and vision development, customer-led repositioning and operational improvement.


IADS invited Greenspan to address member CEOs to share his expert opinion about major factors from 2023 that will continue to influence the retail and consumer industries going forward. Greenspan addressed these times of uncertainty and offered a bit of direction to weather upcoming challenging times, offering a bit of a playbook on how to win the future of retail.


IADS Exclusive: Bain & Company - How to win in the Future of Retail


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: AI Revolution in Retail

Christine Montard
February 21, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: AI Revolution in Retail

Christine Montard
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February 21, 2024

For over a year, gen AI has been on everyone's lips. Boards are pressing their CEOs to have a strategy for incorporating AI in the business even as many executives still don't know where to start. The IADS organised a conference with Bain & OpenAI as early as July 2023 to explore the topic. In any case, 90% of commercial leaders expect to utilize gen AI solutions "often" over the next 2 years. They are cautious though, and are most enthusiastic about use cases in the early stages of the customer journey including lead identification, marketing optimization, and personalized outreach.


This article delves into AI developments that have the potential to impact and improve retailers' operations, in order to define a non-exhaustive list of existing use cases already implemented. In CRM and marketing, gen AI helps to better target audiences and shift towards ultra-personalization. The impact of conversation tools has already been visible in copywriting and chatbot developments as AI has been influential in boosting creativity. When it comes to sales functions, AI tools have the power to increase sales thanks to better and tailored customer experiences. In terms of supply chains, AI has not been fully developed, but there is a lot of potential. Finally, AI has already impacted HR practices.


IADS Exclusive: AI Revolution in Retail


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: The IADS Global Department Store Monitor: trends and transformations (2019 - 2022)

Mary Jane Shea
February 14, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: The IADS Global Department Store Monitor: trends and transformations (2019 - 2022)

Mary Jane Shea
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February 14, 2024

In May 2021, Dr. Christopher Knee launched the "IADS 100 Report", a first-of-its-kind report gathering the financial data and figures of 100 department stores around the world. This global observatory was created in a time of turmoil to create a benchmark for global department store players.


Since the release of the first report in 2021, it has been proven to be a difficult task to find relevant and comparable data for 100 or more consistent department stores as many companies change hands in ownership, decide to go private, or don't break out results by business unit. To clarify the definition of this report, we have decided to rename it to "The IADS Global Department Store Monitor" to reflect that we are consistently reviewing the landscape and updating it with any important and relevant information.


Another area of important clarification is around what results are being captured in the report. Fiscal years do not always line up with some companies finishing their year with the calendar year and others ending their fiscal year in June or July. The 2022 fiscal results for this monitor have been considered as any annual report that closes from the end of December 2022 to those that end in June 2023. To compare yearly results, this pattern has been followed for all previous year's results as well. This baseline allows a level of consistency in the events that have occurred in the years covered to be able to draw conclusions.


The entire reason the IADS 100, now the IADS Global Department Store Monitor, was launched was to address the various amounts of disruptions that followed the Covid-19 pandemic and after, as it seems that disruption is now a norm in the retail business. Even now at the beginning of 2024, the baseline of annual results is still being compared to 2019 figures.


What does this say about the state of recovery? We are not out of the woods yet.


This report will attempt to detail some of the major changes across global retail markets and understand what a new turbulent normal could promise. Note: To make comparisons year over year, all exchange rates to Euros come from March 22, 2021, which was the date chosen during the initial IADS 100 release.


Access the IADS Global Department Store Monitor datasheet here.


IADS Exclusive: The IADS Global Department Store Monitor: trends and transformations (2019 - 2022)


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: 2023 IADS Academy

Christine Montard
February 7, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: 2023 IADS Academy

Christine Montard
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February 7, 2024

The IADS Academy programme, a 28-year-old tailor-made mentoring workshop open only to our members' high potentials, promotes cooperation and future orientation. Over the years, the IADS Academy has trained 180+ executives from 28 companies in 21 countries, some of whom reached top positions in member and non-member companies (for IADS member companies alone, 4 CEOs). The following is an attempt to report all insights the Academy group considered and worked on during the journey to their final presentation shown to the IADS member CEOs.


IADS Exclusive: 2023 IADS Academy


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: Is retail media an opportunity, or a lifeline for department stores?

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
January 31, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: Is retail media an opportunity, or a lifeline for department stores?

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
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January 31, 2024

Since its inception in 1928, the IADS' purpose has been to coordinate information between department stores worldwide and research their activities to help them address the many challenges they must face. This translates into many responsibilities carried out by the IADS, all solely intended to provide insights to its members and help them have a broader understanding of the shifting business environment.


Every year since 2020, the IADS has produced a White Paper on a specific topic perceived as important for its members. In 2020 the purpose was to collect the learnings from the management of the pandemic and how to make sure department stores would be prepared for the next crisis. The 2021 White Paper was dedicated to digital transformation and its impact on the organization. In 2022 it was all about the development of sustainability, CSR and ESG in retail businesses. And the 2023 edition is dedicated to the hot topic of retail media.


Why is it so hot? Just for a start, this subject has generated a considerable amount of buzz, conferences and articles over the past three years (as suggested by the lengthy number of sources that the IADS quoted in its White Paper). Also, it was interesting to see that the 2022 edition of the NRF Big Show was all about retail media on stage, but with very few suppliers at the fair, which was the contrary in 2023, with a significant number of suppliers proposing new solutions to deploy retail media.


The other reason why the White Paper this year was dedicated to this technical topic is because we believe at the IADS that retail media could be a profitable route for department stores willing to maximize the value of their real estate. While retail media has expanded thanks to the digitalization of the world, we believe that the amount of in-store interfaces with the customer, coupled with tracking and measurement capabilities in close-loops that are now allowed with the state of technology, could transform department stores into very efficient media companies, maximizing the value of the number of eyeballs visiting not only their e-commerce websites but also their flagship stores. This vision was also confirmed in 2023 during an IADS CEO meeting, during which the Publicis COO suggested that this was starting to happen in a select number of retailers.


The 2023 edition of the White Paper aims to identify where the retail media market stands, spell out the opportunities (and potential traps) for department stores, as well as suggest a few routes of reflection for department store leaders to prepare their organizations for such a shift. Finally, since retail media is seen as a way to generate incremental, high-margin, revenue, we also explore this school of thought and try to understand the cost of such new revenue, not only in financial terms but also in terms of people, organizations and needed adaptations.


IADS Exclusive: Is retail media an opportunity, or a lifeline for department stores?


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: NRF Event 2024: what's new?

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
January 24, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: NRF Event 2024: what's new?

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
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January 24, 2024

The 2024 edition of the NRF Big Show took place on 14 – 17 January. The four-day event was fully back on track, with more than 40,000 attendees and several exhibitors surpassing last year's attendance (1,100), which was already a record. Overall, the event felt overwhelming, not so much due to the number of exhibitors and the energy in the fair section, but through the lines at the entrances of the conference rooms, which were often crowded and had to turn down people. Excitement was palpable, and the international crowd, as well as brands (and not only vendors), were back. The message was that the event was back to its pre-pandemic heights.


IADS Exclusive: NRF Event 2024: what's new?


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*