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Department stores have experienced a decline in sales and prominence over the past decades. This decline is attributed to changing consumer habits and the rise of e-commerce, which has provided consumers with more convenient shopping options. Many department stores have struggled to adapt to these changes, resulting in financial difficulties and store closures. On the other hand, direct-to-consumer (DTC) brands have revolutionised the retail industry by cutting out intermediaries and selling directly to consumers. This approach has allowed some of them to offer better prices than regular brands, personalised experiences, proximity with their community of customers and greater convenience. Many global brands have also considered adopting a DTC approach to grow margins and control their image and prices without withdrawing from department stores and multi-brand retailers altogether. However, this new business model puts additional pressure on department stores. Nike is the best example of the success and limits of the DTC business model, showing how partnering with multi-brand retailers is still very much relevant and efficient.

Going DTC: the tumultuous relationship between Nike and multi-brand retailers

In this past decade, Nike has significantly transformed its distribution strategy. In 2017, the brand embarked on a DTC strategy, cutting half of its multi-brand partners by 2021. As reminded by BoF, at the time, DTC brands were top-rated by consumers and seen as a smart business model. Startups like Allbirds were expected to become unicorns on the single assumption that they wouldn’t need department stores or multi-brand retailers to reach consumers, instead recruiting them online and on social media. Shareholders and analysts celebrated Nike’s move as they saw it as a way to increase control over customer data and personalise marketing efforts. Nike's DTC strategy impacted big US names such as Sporting Goods, Dunham’s Sports, Urban Outfitters, Dillard’s, and Zappos. Nike maintained relationships with major accounts like Foot Locker and Dick’s Sporting Goods, though. However, in 2022, demonstrating complex relationships, Foot Locker reported a significant decline in its Nike inventory.

Focusing on direct sales through its ecosystem composed of its own stores, website, and app, Nike’s DTC approach was designed to strengthen customer relationships, control prices and customer data, and capture higher margins. The brand’s DTC strategy reached new heights when Nike started focusing on localised and experience-based retail concepts, such as Nike Live stores. Typically located in urban neighbourhoods, hyper localised, this small-format (from 1,000 to 3,000 square feet) retail concept was designed to provide a personalised shopping experience based on the preferences and behaviours of local NikePlus members. Nike Live stores are integrated with the Nike app, allowing customers to reserve products, access exclusive content, and enjoy seamless checkout experiences. These stores also serve as community hubs, hosting events, workshops, and training sessions. The product assortment is tailored to the local market needs, with new products often introduced to keep the selection fresh and relevant. This strategy showed success, with Nike’s DTC channels seeing strong growth. In the third quarter ending in February 2023, direct sales reached US$5.3 billion, a 17% increase year on year.

The relationship with Nike became increasingly complex for department stores, including the IADS members. The brand increased its pressure on department stores in every way possible: total withdrawal as a conclusion for a complicated business relationship, complex price negotiations, refusal to supply best-selling top-tier fashionable sneakers, and hectic and incomplete deliveries. Nike was still the world’s most valuable apparel brand in 2023, showing how popular it is and how vital it can be for department stores to carry it, especially to attract younger customers.

While it was complicated for department stores and multi-brand retailers alike, this shift was not entirely beneficial to Nike. The sportswear behemoth lost customers by pulling back from wholesale. While Nike continued to prioritise DTC, it became evident that maintaining wholesale channels was critical to reaching more consumers.

Following a more rational strategy, the brand slowly re-engaged with department stores and other wholesale partners in 2023. Macy’s CEO announced that Macy’s stores and website would resume selling Nike apparel in October 2023. Foot Locker's CEO also discussed a renewed relationship with Nike, planning for growth in their Nike business in 2024. Excess inventory issues also influenced Nike’s decision: reintegrating US retailers like DSW, Foot Locker, and Macy’s helps Nike clear over-stocks faster, making room for new products. Re-engaging with wholesale partners is even more critical at a time when more shoppers focus on essentials over discretionary products like apparel and footwear: a broad distribution becomes essential as the consumer economy tightens. Scepticism about the effectiveness of its DTC strategy also influenced Nike’s move, which aimed at stabilising and potentially growing Nike’s market presence amid a forecasted revenue decline for fiscal year 2025.

In July 2024, marking a new step in revitalising the wholesale business, Nike rehired a former executive as vice president of marketplace partners (Tom Peddie spent 30 years working for Nike, culminating as North America's vice president and general manager). Also, in October 2024, they rehired a long-time Nike Veteran, Eliott Hill, as CEO and President for his deep understanding of the industry and partners. The 2025 fiscal first quarter revenues are down 10% compared to the prior year; direct revenues are down 13%, and wholesale revenues are down 8%. Considered a Nike lifer, Hill has a big job in front of him.

The DTC’s limits

While it has limits, Nike's DTC strategy is not the only factor explaining the current headwinds the brand faces. They somehow lost their focus on products, heavily cutting on R&D. Also, they focused marketing investments on sales activations rather than on brand enhancement, providing great ROI in the short term and poor results in the long term. Finally, regarding e-commerce, Nike saw COVID-19 as the start of a new era that would forever change consumers' habits and not as the bubble it was.

Still, the DTC strategy weighs in on Nike’s performance. The brand now recognises the importance of being present wherever its consumers are, including multi-brand retailers, to maintain its market dominance. But in such a competitive market, you snooze, you lose. Nike's pulling back from wholesale prompted new brands to populate empty shelves. Multi-brand retailers had no choice but to develop relatively new competitors' presence, give them more space and communicate on their products. This explains, at least for a part, how On and Hoka boosted their sales, especially in the running categories where Nike and Adidas are traditionally dominant. Heritage brands such as New Balance, Converse and Reebok, responsible brands such as Veja, edgy brands such as Rombaut and more technical brands such as Salomon have also become increasingly successful, making department store and sports retailers’ assortments more dynamic than ever before.

The surge in comfort dressing during the pandemic also accelerated the newcomers' success. On Holding, backed by tennis star Roger Federer, and Decker Outdoors' Hoka have capitalised on this trend. For example, On Running's market share at Dick's Sporting Goods in the US jumped from 0.8% in early 2023 to 6.1% at the end of the year, while Hoka's share rose from 4.2% to 8.7% over the same period. While On and Hoka’s success is primarily attributed to their innovative designs resonating well with sneaker enthusiasts and everyday runners alike, these challenger brands pursued a pragmatic development plan and used wholesale distribution to fuel their growth. As a result, at the end of 2023, they were securing more shelf space at major US retailers, impacting Nike and Adidas's market share.

Also, when it comes to pure DTC brands, there is a limit to the number of digital transactions they can reach without having a physical presence to help them gain new customers. Besides, customer acquisition online has become way too expensive, making the DTC model less relevant. Finally, according to BMO Capital Markets, brands working DTC have not seen a relative revenue or profit margin increase. DTC brands and brands that had pivoted towards a DTC strategy should not overlook multi-brand retailers but work on the right balance between owned and wholesale channels.

Balancing DTC and wholesale

Nike's success relies on its ability to balance channels effectively, using insights from both DTC and wholesale to drive growth and stay ahead of competitors. Despite its DTC strategy, wholesale remains a significant part of Nike's sales, contributing US$25.6 billion in 2022 compared to US$18.7 billion from direct sales.

Nike's renewed focus on wholesale partnerships offers several benefits. It allows the company to leverage retailers’ store networks and tap into their existing customer bases, reaching consumers who prefer shopping in multi-brand environments. The brand’s 2023 new wholesale deals, such as those with Dick’s Sporting Goods and Zalando, are designed to be more collaborative, providing Nike with valuable customer insights and enhancing its market reach. For instance, Nike’s partnership with Dick’s Sporting Goods includes linking customers' Nike membership programme, which benefits both the retailer and Nike by sharing sales data and fostering loyalty.

Having a physical store presence is crucial for emerging DTC brands. They can use department stores to test new markets and products. By entering department stores in specific regions, brands can assess consumer interest before committing to opening their stores. This strategy allows brands to minimise financial risk, gather valuable data on shopping habits, better understand local market dynamics and test new ideas and products without significant upfront investments. Activewear brand Vuori, for example, partnered with Selfridges and Harrods in London to establish a presence before opening its own store.

Collaboration with department stores can also go in another direction. After opening their first store on London’s Regent Street in 2022, Gymshark debuted a permanent store at Selfridges in March 2024 (both in the women’s and men’s departments). Maximising visibility, the DTC brand used Selfridges rather than its own store to launch its first premium athleisure collection, ‘everywear’, with a month-long exclusivity for Selfridges. Gymshark chief brand officer said: “When we were developing […] ‘everywear’, we realised we had to launch it somewhere exciting. That’s why […] this first line will exclusively launch at the UK’s most prestigious retailer, Selfridges, both online and in-store.” Partnering with a department store like Selfridges is also a way for Gymshark to make the brand visible to tourists and develop brand awareness and appeal ahead of their second free-standing store opening in London.

Department stores traditionally attract aspirational customers, and their customer base is different from that of brands’ own stores. Brands have a unique opportunity to access different customers and leverage department store data to inform their marketing and product strategies. By understanding which products perform well with certain customer groups, brands can tailor their offerings and marketing efforts to meet consumer preferences. Brands can collaborate with department stores to create exclusive products and curated collections. These collaborations help differentiate their offerings in the competitive retail environment and attract more customers.

Many DTC brands are now embracing hybrid distribution models, selling through multiple platforms, including pop-up stores, permanent locations, wholesale partners, and their own websites. This flexibility allows them to capture and retain customers in a post-pandemic world where online growth has slowed. By forming wholesale partnerships and opening brick-and-mortar stores, DTC brands can expand their distribution and reach new customers.

As seen with Nike, the relationships between DTC-oriented brands and department stores are complex and multifaceted. By embracing hybrid models, forming partnerships, and focusing on customer experiences, brands and department stores can thrive in this new retail environment. Despite challenges, department stores continue to play a vital role in the retail landscape. Brands can leverage department store presence for market testing, getting customer data and collaborating on exclusive offerings. Department stores provide brands with a platform to reach a broad audience, which is particularly valuable for gaining brand exposure and accessing new customer bases. Being selective in their partnerships and balancing DTC and wholesale channels effectively can lead brands to sustained growth and profitability, ensuring that both channels complement rather than cannibalise each other.

Credits: IADS (Christine Montard)