Printable Version here

CHECK OUT THE PICTURES HERE

The French department store Printemps is making a bold leap into the U.S. market by opening its first American outpost in Manhattan’s Financial District. After four years in the making, the 2-story, 4,000 square meter location at One Wall Street opened last 21st of March (on Spring Day, which means Printemps in French). Interestingly, it is not advertised as a store but as an immersive luxury experience, blending fashion, gastronomy, and hospitality.

With around one-tenth of the Paris Haussmann flagship store surface, Printemps aims to challenge the traditional department store model by focusing on experiential retail, offering visitors a space to linger, discover and indulge. Also, the opening of Printemps, a new retailer name for US consumers, is expected to contribute to the renewal of the Financial District, introducing a new luxury shopping option in NYC. Advertised as “not a department store” on local cabs and billboards, Printemps is a very ambitious project. What is it all about? Many retailers have bit the NYC dust in the past. What is Printemps’ plan to differentiate, in a crowded market, to oversollicited customers?

It starts with the real estate

One Wall Street: from New York landmark…

One Wall Street is an architectural and historical gem that has played a prominent role in New York City's skyline since its construction in the early 20th century. Originally built as the headquarters of the Irving Trust Company, the building was completed in 1931. At the time, it was one of the tallest buildings in the Financial District, standing at 199 meters and 50 stories tall. One Wall Street is most famous for its stunning Art Deco interiors, particularly the Red Room, a large reception hall embellished with over 2.5 million red and gold mosaics designed by artist Hildreth Meière. The space was initially conceived as a banking hall meant to impress clients and reinforce the prestige of the Irving Trust Company. A 35 story annex was added to the original building in 1965.

Over the decades, One Wall Street has changed hands several times, reflecting shifts in the financial industry. After serving as Irving Trust's headquarters, the building became home to the Bank of New York Mellon, following a series of banking mergers and acquisitions. In 2014, the building was acquired by Macklowe Properties for USD 585 million (and backed by Dilmon LLC, the family office of Qatar’s Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani) to embark on a massive redevelopment project to convert the office tower into a luxury residential and retail destination. Macklowe then secured a USD 750 million construction loan from Deutsche Bank in 2018 to fund the project.

… to a mixed-use destination with problems

Besides Printemps, One Wall Street offers local residents a 4,000-square-meter Whole Foods grocery store and a 5,000-square-meter Life Time wellness and fitness club. The project also boasts 9,000 square feet of resident amenities, including a private dining room and a pool.

Estimated to be a USD 1.5 billion project, the building repurpose is the largest office-to-residential conversion in NYC history. It also illustrates a significant shift in the Financial District as it transforms into a more family-friendly residential area, with ongoing office conversions, high-end retail, and cultural attraction openings, including the Perelman Performing Arts Center. On the corporate side, a new breed of companies have been settling down: tech companies, media companies such as Condé Nast and up-and-coming fashion labels like Theophilio, Rosie Assoulin and Bode. These changes will contribute to making the Financial District more lively and generating traffic.

However, as of November 2024, One Wall Street has faced significant challenges, with sales figures far from expectations. Out of 566 available units, only 113 had been sold since sales began in 2021 for USD 230 million, representing 14% of the anticipated USD 1.7 billion in sales. In 2022, developers were already looking for a USD 1.1 billion loan to help refinance the project. In 2023, in response to these slow sales, Macklowe secured a USD 300 million inventory loan from Deutsche Bank to manage the unsold units. Macklowe dumped two sales brokerages and now markets the units with his team.

One Wall Street is not the only project facing issues in the Financial District, as new residents are not flocking quickly. In addition to numerous rentals, the area has more than 220,000 condo units, with thousands unsold despite the median price dipping from USD 1.275 million in the second quarter of 2023 to USD 985,000 in the third quarter of 2024.

New York, New York: if I can make it there

From Galeries Lafayette and others…

New York has always been a retail magnet. Galeries Lafayette previously attempted to establish a presence in NYC. In 1991, they opened a store in Trump Tower on Fifth Avenue. After a promising debut, customers considered the store too French and complained that the supposedly exclusive brands were not. The targeted USD 65-70 million turnover could never be achieved, only reaching USD 24 million in sales in 1993. With high operating costs and stiff competition, losses peaked at 97 million in 1992 and 93 million in 1993. The store closed in November 1994. Other foreign retailers entered the U.S. and eventually shut down: Takashimaya, Topshop, Tesco, Carrefour and Joe Fresh.

… to Printemps

Luxury has never thrived in the Financial District in the past. Big names failed: Saks Fifth Avenue and Milan’s 10 Corso Como both left the area after less than five years, though Tiffany & Co. and Hermès opened stores on Wall Street in the past decade. Located close by, the Brookfield Place mall houses Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Louis Vuitton and Zegna. Also illustrating the area evolution, other high-street retailers are available close to One Wall Street: Zara, Anthropologie and Urban Outfitters.

Printemps didn’t disclose how much turnover the store is expected to generate, but CEO Jean-Marc Bellaiche says they have a “reasonable business plan.” Printemps bets on 150,000 people entering the store daily and targets local residents with a household income estimated at USD 170,000. Commuters and visitors from out of town are also targeted but should not account for the most significant chunk of customers. Echoing the new Selfridges’ loyalty programme, which rewards purchases and time spent using the store services and amenities (such as the skateboard room and the cinema, for example), Printemps says they will measure success in terms of the time customers spend in-store, not only in terms of sales per square foot. However, is this strategy relevant enough to generate the necessary volumes to make the store viable? They give the store two seasons to know if it’s a success or not.

When it comes to finances, Printemps has a special link with the building as the department store is owned by the Qatari-backed investment fund Divine Investments SA, which is supported by Dilmon LLC, a company financing the project along with Macklowe. As a result, it’s most likely that Printemps’s rent is very low or close to nothing. Low rent will certainly be necessary to help compensate for other significant costs as described in Vogue Business: “Printemps will own the products that are sold there. Printemps will employ the people who work there. […] It’s both an experiment and a gauntlet thrown.” Not to mention the cost of building this ultra-luxurious store concept.

Finally, Printemps wants to develop its e-commerce presence in the U.S. The company has launched a dedicated U.S. website to complement the store opening, us.printemps.com. This platform will be designed to provide American customers with access to Printemps' curated luxury offerings, aligning with its strategy to create a seamless omnichannel experience locally.

Don’t call it retail, but hospitality

Design and interior aesthetics

Parisian architect Laura Gonzalez was in charge of the store's interior. Shoppers will encounter mirrored walls, marble staircases, lavish hardwood floors and intricate detailing that echo the brand's Parisian flagship, as well as vintage furniture that is all moveable and for sale. The landmarked Red Room has been transformed into a beautiful shoe salon with a forest of “trees” lighting up footwear displayed on circular onyx tables. It is an impressive introduction to the store.

Printemps New York is not designed to be a conventional department store. Instead, Bellaiche describes it as a “hospitality project” where “French sophistication and curation meets American hospitality,” that encourages visitors to spend time inside rather than rush through quick purchases.

Inspired by a Parisian apartment and dubbed an “apartment store” by Thierry Prevost, General Manager of Printemps America, the store is divided into ten uniquely designed rooms, each offering a distinct shopping experience. The Boudoir houses eveningwear in a gold and lacquered ambiance, while La Garçonnière (translating to bachelor pad) houses menswear, and the Playroom features casualwear, gifts, and sneakers displayed under an LED ceiling that changes visuals (Nike takeover at the time of the opening). The Salle de Bain beauty and spa area, with four beauty cabins, offers luxurious treatments such as facials and nail services, reinforcing the store’s hospitality-driven approach.

Curated offerings

The store doesn’t advertise itself as a concept store even though it could be considering its surface, its layout and its interior designs. The store will sell men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, casual wear, outerwear, vintage, active, accessories, beauty, wellness and gifts. Unlike traditional department store layouts and the usual branded shop-in-shop model in fashion or beauty departments, Printemps NYC favours a multi-brand, curated selection of luxury goods from 450 established brands and niche labels landing in NYC for the first time. Dior, Manolo Blahnik, Valentino, Maison Margiela, JW Anderson, Jacquemus, Jean Paul Gaultier, Manolo Blahnik, Aquazzura, Balenciaga, Nike, Acne Studios, Simone Rocha, Carven, Jil Sander and Bottega Veneta are among the roster of brands, which will be completed by niche brands such as Vautrait, Le Monde Beryl, Corsi Design, Aeyde and Magda Butrym as well as small and artisanal French brands such as Joseph Duclos, Pinel & Pinel and Capulette. Big names such as Louis Vuitton are missing. As a result, the store offers a mix of exclusive items from high-end brands, artisanal products and vintage offerings. Additionally, Printemps integrates its private label, Saison 1865. Encouraging circularity, the Atelier & Repair service offers customers options beyond standard retail transactions.

It’s unsure whether these offerings will be enough to lure the affluent customers the store is targeting. But the mix of highs and lows indeed adds flair to the store. Printemps is not the only department store looking to behave more like an independent multi-brand store. Many luxury department stores try adding flair to the succession of shop-in-shops, thanks to curated multi-brand areas meant to differentiate and demonstrate the specific store's taste. For example, this is the case with L’Endroit and Le Market in Printemps and la Creative Galerie in Galeries Lafayette, in their Paris's Boulevard Haussmann flagship stores.

Finally, to differentiate from the department store’s traditional layout, one of the first contact points for shoppers will be a café, a similar strategy seen at the Boyner’s Cadde store, which has a Costa Coffee right at the entrance. Also, similar to the Printemps Haussmann store, a gift section featuring cheaper items such as candles will be featured at the store entrance.

Culinary experiences and events 

Now integral to any elevated retail experience, food offerings have become a department store staple. Research by Harrods showed that when customers engage with their 26 restaurants and bars, they spend twice as long in the building and twice as much money. Printemps follows a similar strategy and dedicates a third of the shop floor to F&B offerings. They have appointed Chef Gregory Gourdet as its culinary director who created five different concepts for the store: an all-day casual café, a classic Parisian-inspired raw bar called Salon Vert, the Red Room Bar for cocktails, and The Champagne Bar. There is also a French wine shop. However, the most critical F&B option is undoubtedly the Maison Passerelle restaurant. It aims for a Michelin star and is considered one of the 10 most important restaurant openings in NYC in 2025. It is instrumental to the strategy, and bookings are said to be already flooding in. Fine dining is increasingly vital to department store success: El Corte Inglés also successfully opened a Michelin star restaurant, RavioXO, in Castellana stores in 2022.

Beyond fashion and dining, Printemps integrates culture into its retail experience. The store will host curated events, brand takeovers (Jacquemus at the time of the opening), and even meditation sessions, further positioning itself as a destination rather than just a place to shop. With a focus on retail-tainment, Printemps hopes to fill the void left by Barneys New York and Jeffrey, former fashion landmarks that once led the city’s luxury shopping scene.

Printemps certainly plays by the book and ticks many boxes of what a department store is nowadays: a beautiful store concept, F&B options, a curated multi-brand offer, services and events, all with a Parisian flair that New Yorkers will probably like.

The story of One Wall Street and Printemps’ arrival in the Financial District is emblematic of a broader transformation in urban retail and real estate. As traditional office spaces become increasingly obsolete in a post-pandemic world, developers and retailers alike reimagine the possibilities of mixed-use destinations. One Wall Street’s conversion reflects this shift, blending residential and retail to attract affluent buyers.

Yet, with sluggish condo sales and a volatile retail market, Printemps’ long-term viability remains uncertain. Will Printemps and One Wall Street rewrite the narrative, or will they become yet another cautionary tale in the city’s high-stakes retail experiment? As stated in the Financial Times by Neil Saunders, managing director of Global Data, “they are definitely launching at a challenging time. Consumers are becoming a little more reluctant, the luxury market is a lot softer than it has been, and the environment is very competitive. That said, there is a case to have something else that’s a bit different. There is an opportunity for them to carve out a niche, but it won’t necessarily be easy.” Only time will tell, but one thing is sure: nothing is ever static in New York, and reinvention is the game's name.

Credits: IADS (Christine Montard)