What: Despite COP29's shortcomings, fashion's unique position across multiple sectors presents an unprecedented opportunity to drive environmental change through industry-led initiatives.

Why it is important: With 60% of consumers showing increased climate concern and major retailers committing billions to sustainability initiatives, the industry's cross-sector influence can drive meaningful environmental change beyond its own footprint.

The fashion industry's response to COP29's disappointing outcomes in Azerbaijan highlights a crucial moment for sector-led climate action. While the UN summit, hosted in an oil-rich nation, failed to secure strong climate financing commitments, fashion's notable absence from the event speaks to a broader industry shift towards independent action. Industry leaders argue that waiting for global mandates is no longer viable, particularly given fashion's unique position to influence change across multiple sectors.The industry's interconnection with agriculture, water systems, and renewable energy creates opportunities for meaningful impact. Lewis Perkins, president of the Apparel Impact Institute, emphasises fashion's potential to create collaborative blueprints for change that extend beyond its own footprint. However, this potential remains largely untapped, with experts noting a disconnect between urgent climate needs and industry action.The challenge lies in transforming rhetoric into action, particularly in supporting Global South suppliers who face the greatest climate impacts. The industry's cultural capital and storytelling capabilities could be powerful tools for driving collective action, provided companies move beyond mere commitments to meaningful implementation.

IADS Notes: The fashion industry's response to COP29's disappointment reflects a broader pattern of industry adaptation identified in recent reports. As noted in November 2024, the BoF-McKinsey State of Fashion report emphasises that brands must act decisively on sustainability despite economic uncertainty, while the Transformers Foundation highlights the persistent exclusion of Global South suppliers from key sustainability decisions. The industry's potential for leadership is demonstrated by Neiman Marcus's achievements in October 2024, exceeding emission reduction targets ahead of schedule. This contrasts with Bain & Company's September 2024 findings that while 60% of consumers show increased climate concern, there's hesitation to pay premiums for sustainable products. These insights suggest that rather than waiting for global climate summits to drive change, the fashion industry has both the capability and responsibility to lead through direct action and inclusive collaboration.

The COP flop: What the failure of the world’s biggest climate summit means for fashion