What: The fashion industry's latest wave of creative director appointments reveals a persistent lack of diversity, with only four of nine new 2025 appointments representing women or people of colour.

Why it is important: This trend highlights a critical disconnect between industry hiring practices and market realities, especially significant as luxury faces a 51% workforce turnover rate and growing demand for authentic storytelling from diverse consumer bases.

The luxury fashion industry's approach to creative leadership remains remarkably homogeneous, despite mounting evidence suggesting the need for change. Among 35 leading brands analysed, only ten positions are held by women and three by men of colour, with Sandra Choi being the sole woman of colour in a creative director role. This imbalance persists even as the industry faces significant market pressures and changing consumer demographics. The recent appointments for 2025, including Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein, Sarah Burton at Givenchy, and Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, represent small steps toward diversity but highlight the broader systemic challenges.

Industry experts argue that this lack of diversity stems from multiple factors: systemic barriers, market uncertainty, and growing politicisation of DEI initiatives. However, playing it safe might prove risky, as consumers increasingly demand originality and authentic storytelling. Market research indicates a growing disconnect, with 77% of consumers noting increased luxury prices while perceiving declining creativity and quality. This situation is particularly concerning given the shifting wealth dynamics, where young women's earning power and global markets increasingly drive luxury growth.

IADS Notes: Recent industry developments underscore the complexity of this issue. While luxury brands maintained strong DEI commitments in February 2025 , department stores have demonstrated successful leadership transformations, as seen with Harvey Nichols' strategic appointments in November 2024 . The sector's significant workforce challenges, evidenced by a 51% turnover intention rate , further emphasise the need for diverse perspectives in creative leadership. These changes occur as retailers like Saks Global implement integrated commercial team structures , suggesting the industry recognises the need for transformation while struggling to achieve it at the creative director level.

Why are so many creative directors still white men?