What: France amends its climate bill to impose new restrictions on ultra-fast fashion, marking the first major fashion market to directly regulate hyper-accelerated business models through targeted penalties.

Why it is important: As the first direct regulatory action against ultra-fast fashion business models, this legislation reflects growing concerns about the industry's environmental impact while acknowledging the need to differentiate between traditional and ultra-fast fashion retailers.

France's latest amendment to its climate bill represents a targeted approach to regulating ultra-fast fashion, focusing specifically on companies with hyperproduction business models. The legislation introduces environmental penalties and advertising restrictions aimed at ultra-cheap, disposable trends, particularly affecting platforms like Shein and Temu. While not an outright ban on fast fashion, the law imposes escalating fines on companies whose business models rely on hyperproduction, with penalties of a few euros per item. Notably, the legislation distinguishes between ultra-fast fashion platforms and traditional mass-market retailers like Zara and H&M, acknowledging different operational models within the industry. This regulatory move is particularly significant coming from France, a global fashion capital, and builds upon its existing anti-waste and circular economy laws implemented since 2020. The amendment addresses fashion's substantial environmental impact, with the industry contributing to 10% of global carbon emissions and generating over 90 million tonnes of textile waste annually.

IADS Notes: France's legislative action aligns with broader European efforts to regulate fast fashion's environmental impact. In February 2025, the EU implemented comprehensive regulations requiring e-commerce platforms to fund textile waste management and assume product liability. This coincided with the abolition of the €150 duty exemption for low-value imports, directly affecting ultra-fast fashion retailers. The impact has been significant, with Shein adapting through initiatives like sustainable denim production and stricter sourcing requirements. Market data from February 2025 reveals that despite these challenges, Shein maintains 23 million French customers, demonstrating the complex balance between regulation and market demand.

France says no to ultra fast fashion. Will the world follow?