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Chanel launches arts & culture magazine

WWD
June 2025
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Chanel launches arts & culture magazine

WWD
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June 2025

What: Chanel launches Arts & Culture Magazine, a 250-page visual publication showcasing the brand's cultural initiatives and artistic collaborations from the past five years, with distribution in 20 select bookstores worldwide.

Why it is important: This publication marks a strategic evolution in luxury retail, as brands transform from fashion houses into cultural curators, creating content that extends their influence beyond traditional retail boundaries.

Chanel's Culture Fund has introduced Arts & Culture Magazine, a comprehensive publication documenting the brand's artistic collaborations and cultural initiatives from the past five years. The magazine, known as Vol. 1, features multiple paper types across its 250 pages and includes creative insights about the future from various contributors. To celebrate the launch, Chanel has created a special installation at London's Foreign Exchange News in Bayswater, running until June 28. The magazine will be available in 20 carefully selected bookstores across major cities including Amsterdam, Bangalore, Bangkok, Berlin, Glasgow, Hong Kong, Los Angeles, Mexico City, Milan, New York, Paris, São Paulo, Seoul, Shanghai, Sydney, Taipei, Tokyo, and Zurich. The publication's distinctive cover features items from Gabrielle Chanel's personal collection, including a 1921 statue bust by Jacques Lipchitz wearing metallic Chanel sunglasses from 2002, photographed by Roe Ethridge. This launch coincides with the brand's centenary celebrations in the UK, which recently included a 100-guest dinner and ballet performance at the V&A East Storehouse.

IADS Notes: Chanel's launch of Arts & Culture Magazine represents a significant evolution in luxury brands' cultural engagement strategies. This initiative follows the brand's successful cultural hub collaboration with Shinsegae in April 2025, where retail spaces were transformed to include museum exhibits and art displays. The magazine's launch aligns with March 2025's broader industry shift, exemplified by Saint Laurent's furniture design reissues, demonstrating how luxury brands are evolving into multifaceted cultural enterprises. This transformation reflects findings from March 2025 showing luxury brands moving away from trend-chasing towards more authentic cultural storytelling. The strategic global distribution through 20 select bookstores builds on December 2024's observations about luxury brands repositioning themselves as cultural curators rather than mere fashion labels, creating a network of cultural touchpoints that extend beyond traditional retail boundaries.


Chanel launches arts & culture magazine

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Central Retail earmarks up to $1.4 billion for expansion in next three years

Forbes
June 2025
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Central Retail earmarks up to $1.4 billion for expansion in next three years

Forbes
|
June 2025

What: Thai retail giant commits 1.4 billion USD to store expansion and renovation through 2027, targeting 5% annual growth in revenue and EBITDA.

Why it is important: The expansion plan highlights the growing importance of Southeast Asian markets in global retail, despite current economic challenges.

Central Retail Corp has announced a substantial 47-billion-baht ($1.4 billion) investment plan for expansion and store upgrades across Thailand and Vietnam through 2027. The three-year strategy includes opening 57 to 72 new stores in various formats and renovating up to 41 existing locations. Currently operating 1,889 stores in Thailand, 131 in Vietnam, and nine in Italy, the company aims to achieve 5% annual growth in both EBITDA and revenue until 2027, building on its 2024 performance where EBITDA rose 6% to 34.4 billion baht and revenue increased 5.7% to 262.8 billion baht. To enhance operations, Central Retail is implementing AI technology for seamless omnichannel shopping experiences while strengthening its loyalty program, which now boasts over 26 million members.

IADS Notes: Central Retail's ambitious expansion plan reflects broader transformations in the Asian retail sector. According to Inside Retail's March 2025 coverage, the company has maintained 5.3% overall revenue growth through strategic expansion, despite challenges in its Vietnam operations. Inside Retail's February 2025 analysis showed how major Asian retailers are investing heavily in technological integration, with 90% of consumers valuing AI-driven personalisation. Inside Retail's March 2025 report revealed Vietnam's retail market is set to reach $350 billion in 2025, explaining Central's continued investment despite current challenges. Inside Retail's March 2025 coverage highlighted how Central Pattana has emerged as Southeast Asia's dominant mall operator, boasting 90% occupancy rates, which demonstrates the group's successful mixed-use development strategy. The new 47-billion-baht investment plan, targeting store expansion and renovation across Thailand and Vietnam through 2027, shows how Central Retail is balancing physical expansion with digital transformation to maintain its regional leadership position.


Central Retail earmarks up To $1.4 billion for expansion in next three years

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In Japan, department stores' tax-free sales drop as tourists' shopping patterns change

Japan Times
June 2025
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In Japan, department stores' tax-free sales drop as tourists' shopping patterns change

Japan Times
|
June 2025

What: Japanese department store tax-free sales plunge 40% year-on-year in May 2025, with average tourist spending dropping significantly amid changing shopping patterns.

Why it is important: This trend demonstrates the need for Japanese retailers to diversify their revenue streams beyond tourist spending and strengthen domestic market appeal.

Japanese department stores are experiencing a significant downturn in tax-free sales, with May figures showing a 40% year-on-year decline. General products, particularly luxury brands, saw the steepest decrease at 45.6%. The average spending per shopper has fallen to approximately ¥79,000, down ¥47,000 from May 2024, while shopper numbers decreased by 5.4%, marking the first negative growth in 38 months. Industry experts attribute these changes to evolving tourist demographics and shifting shopping priorities. Economic factors, including a stronger yen and luxury brand price increases, have made tax-free shopping less attractive. Additional challenges include U.S. tariff uncertainties, China's economic slowdown, and social media rumours affecting specific markets like Hong Kong. Major retailers are responding with digital initiatives and enhanced services, such as Isetan Mitsukoshi's foreign client app and Matsuya's VIP guest lounge.

IADS Notes: The current decline in Japanese department store tax-free sales reflects a significant shift in retail dynamics. According to nippon.com's January 2025 coverage , the sector had achieved record-breaking duty-free sales in 2024, with an 85.9% increase to ¥648.7 billion, making the current 40% decline particularly notable. Inside Retail's April 2025 analysis showed how major retailers were already experiencing challenges, with sales declines ranging from 0.8% to 1.6% across different chains. Inside Retail's February 2025 report revealed broader market pressures, with consumer confidence hitting concerning lows at 35.2 on the government's index. Inside Retail's April 2025 coverage highlighted how retailers like Takashimaya are responding by diversifying their strategies beyond tourist spending, recognising the need to strengthen domestic market appeal. The current average spend of ¥79,000 per shopper, down ¥47,000 from May 2024, demonstrates how currency fluctuations and global economic uncertainties are reshaping tourist shopping patterns in Japan.


In Japan, department stores' tax-free sales drop as tourists' shopping patterns change

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Saks Global report: Intent to spend on luxury softens

WWD
June 2025
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Saks Global report: Intent to spend on luxury softens

WWD
|
June 2025

What: Saks Global's latest Luxury Pulse survey reveals significant decline in consumer optimism, with only 47% planning to maintain or increase luxury spending in the next quarter.

Why it is important: The findings reflect a fundamental transformation in luxury retail, as highlighted in recent Bain & Company reports showing the first contraction in personal luxury goods in 15 years, requiring retailers to rethink their engagement strategies.

Saks Global's latest Luxury Pulse survey unveils a marked decline in luxury consumer confidence, with economic optimism falling 13 percentage points since January 2025. Only 28% of respondents express optimism about the economy, while the percentage feeling calm about economic conditions has dropped by 22 points year-over-year. Despite these concerns, 67% of high-income consumers earning $200,000 or more remain confident about their personal finances. The survey identifies key consumer worries, including the general social and political climate, potential recession, and personal financial security. In response, Saks is emphasising product longevity and value proposition, while enhancing personalisation efforts and focusing on special occasions. The company maintains that luxury consumers are typically "last in, first out" during economic challenges, suggesting potential resilience in the sector despite current headwinds.

IADS Notes: The luxury retail landscape has undergone significant transformation throughout 2024-2025. As reported in February 2025, Bain-Altagamma's study revealed the first contraction in personal luxury goods in 15 years, with the industry losing 50 million consumers over two years. This aligns with December 2024 data showing a broader shift in consumer behaviour, where even affluent shoppers are becoming more discerning in their purchases. The trend is further evidenced by January 2025 reports indicating that top customers now account for 45% of global purchases, up from 35% in 2021, demonstrating increasing market polarisation.


Saks Global report: Intent to spend on luxury softens

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Printemps New York High Concept: Will It Work?

The Robin Report
June 2025
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Printemps New York High Concept: Will It Work?

The Robin Report
|
June 2025

What: Printemps launches innovative retail concept in New York's Financial District, reimagining traditional department store model through experiential design and hospitality focus.

Why it is important: This transformation shows how department stores can remain relevant by creating immersive destinations that combine retail, hospitality, and cultural experiences.

Printemps New York represents a bold reimagining of the department store concept, opening its 55,000-square-foot palace of retail on Wall Street in Spring 2025. The space, conceived as a French apartment, features 14 distinct rooms including five dedicated to food and beverage, emphasizing experience and discovery over traditional retail metrics. Under CEO Jean-Marc Bellaiche and Laura Lendrum's vision, the store was designed to create joy in shopping through architectural drama, including a 33-foot ceiling and the historic Red Room's three million red ombré and gold mosaic tiles. While the investment represents a significant gamble, it targets the Financial District's evolving demographics, where 36% of residents earn over USD 250,000 annually. The store's curated approach combines luxury retail with hospitality elements, from oyster bars to designer showrooms, creating an immersive destination that encourages extended visits and social engagement.

IADS Notes: Printemps' Wall Street opening represents a significant evolution in experiential retail strategy. According to BoF's March 2025 coverage , the 54,500-square-foot location prioritizes customer dwell time over traditional metrics, with five food and beverage venues under James Beard-winning chef Gregory Gourdet creating a comprehensive luxury destination. LSA Conso's March 2025 analysis revealed how this approach aligns with Printemps' broader transformation, which has already tripled revenue from American tourists while expanding digital capabilities to 650 brands. Journal du Net's January 2025 report highlighted how this opening contributes to Manhattan's retail renaissance, joining innovative concepts that are challenging the "death of physical retail" narrative. WWD's May 2025 coverage showed how the early success of this hospitality-focused model led to strategic leadership changes, with Thierry Prevost's appointment as CEO reinforcing the company's commitment to building a distinctive shopping experience that emphasizes deep customer engagement. The store's design as a French apartment, complete with 14 rooms including five dedicated to food and beverage, demonstrates how traditional retail formats can be reimagined to create immersive, culturally-relevant destinations.


Printemps New York High Concept: Will It Work? 

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LVMH bets on AI to navigate luxury goods slowdown

The Wall Street Journal
June 2025
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LVMH bets on AI to navigate luxury goods slowdown

The Wall Street Journal
|
June 2025

What: LVMH implements comprehensive AI strategy across its 75 brands, balancing technological innovation with traditional luxury experience.

Why it is important: This development reveals how major luxury groups are using AI to address market challenges while preserving the human element of luxury retail.

LVMH's strategic AI implementation spans its entire operation, built on a central data platform developed with Google Cloud over four years. The company is applying predictive AI, generative AI, and agents across supply chain planning, pricing, product design, marketing, and personalisation to maintain market share amid slowing consumer demand. At Tiffany, AI agents help sales advisers leverage customer interaction history for personalised engagement, emphasising technology's role in enhancing rather than replacing human service. The company's MaIA platform, using models like Google's Gemini and OpenAI's GPT, receives over 2 million monthly requests from 40,000 employees. While focusing on operational efficiency, LVMH maintains that technology should work behind the scenes to preserve the luxury experience, from improving e-commerce search capabilities to supporting creative teams with AI-powered mood boards.

IADS Notes: LVMH's AI strategy represents a comprehensive approach to luxury retail transformation. According to Vogue Business's July 2024 coverage , the company's AI Factory initiative has been developing modular algorithms to support various business needs, from e-commerce recommendations to product forecasting, while maintaining ethical AI practices. Vogue Business's May 2024 analysis revealed how LVMH's partnership with Alibaba enhanced its digital capabilities in China, leveraging advanced AI technologies for personalised shopping experiences and operational efficiencies. WWD's April 2025 report showed how this digital transformation helps LVMH navigate market challenges, with successful product launches and strategic market positioning despite a 2% revenue decline. Inside Retail's March 2025 coverage highlighted how AI-driven personalisation has become crucial for retailers, with 71% of consumers expecting personalised interactions and industry leaders demonstrating 15-30% improvement in customer service efficiency. The company's MaIA platform, receiving over 2 million requests monthly from 40,000 employees, demonstrates how AI can enhance operations while maintaining the essence of luxury experience.


LVMH bets on AI to navigate luxury goods slowdown

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Dickson Concepts sees profit slide amid lower sales and higher costs

Inside Retail
June 2025
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Dickson Concepts sees profit slide amid lower sales and higher costs

Inside Retail
|
June 2025

What: Dickson Concepts reports 43.5% profit decline to USD 25.4 million as Hong Kong sales slump 29%, while China shows resilience with 9.2% growth.

Why it is important: The results highlight the evolving dynamics of Asian luxury retail, where traditional market leaders like Hong Kong face unprecedented challenges while mainland China shows resilience Dickson Concepts, the Hong Kong-listed luxury goods retailer, has reported a significant 43.5% drop in annual profit to USD 25.4 million for the year ending March, alongside a 19.9% decline in revenue to USD 246.2 million. The company's performance varied markedly across its markets, with Hong Kong, its largest market contributing 63% of total sales, experiencing a sharp 29% decline in turnover.

Taiwan sales edged down 0.4%, while mainland China demonstrated resilience with a 9.2% growth in local currency terms. The company's product mix remains dominated by watches and jewellery at 49.9% of sales, followed by fashion and accessories at 26.1%, and cosmetics and beauty products at 18%. Despite these challenges, Dickson Concepts maintains its presence across the region with 63 stores: five in Hong Kong, 32 in China, and 26 in Taiwan. The company acknowledges that returning to historical growth trajectories in sales and profitability is unrealistic given the rapidly changing retail landscape and shifting consumer behaviour.

IADS Notes: The performance of Dickson Concepts in June 2025 reflects fundamental changes in Asian luxury retail dynamics. This follows the company's earlier warning in May 2025 of a 20% sales decline, amid Hong Kong's persistent retail downturn that has now extended to 14 consecutive months. The contrasting performance between markets mirrors broader regional shifts, with Hong Kong's luxury sector experiencing significant challenges since July 2024, when retail sales first showed double-digit declines. This trend has continued despite increased visitor numbers, highlighting a fundamental shift in consumer behaviour. The resilience shown in mainland China operations aligns with the market's evolving role, even as Hong Kong grapples with changing tourist spending patterns and strong currency headwinds affecting traditional luxury shopping patterns.


Dickson Concepts sees profit slide amid lower sales and higher costs

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Amazon launches bargain portal Haul in Germany

Fashion United
June 2025
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Amazon launches bargain portal Haul in Germany

Fashion United
|
June 2025

What: Amazon expands its ultra-low-price Haul platform to the German market, challenging Temu's dominance with items priced below EUR 20 and free shipping on orders over EUR 25.

Why it is important: This strategic move reflects the evolving e-commerce landscape where established Western platforms are adapting their business models to compete with Asian rivals, while navigating increasingly complex regulatory environments.

Amazon's launch of its Haul platform in Germany marks a strategic evolution in the company's approach to budget-conscious consumers. The new section, integrated into Amazon's existing infrastructure, offers fashion, homeware, and lifestyle products at notably low prices, with most items priced under EUR 10. The platform's direct shipping model from Chinese logistics centres represents a significant departure from Amazon's traditional fast-delivery approach, demonstrating its willingness to adapt to changing market dynamics. CEO Rocco Bräuniger's emphasis on meeting German customers' demand for low-priced products underscores the platform's response to growing competition from Asian retailers. The initiative includes attractive incentives such as five percent discounts on purchases over EUR 50 and ten percent for orders exceeding EUR 75, whilst maintaining Amazon's commitment to product safety and compliance with regulations. This expansion follows successful implementations in the US and UK markets, reflecting a broader strategic shift in global e-commerce.

IADS Notes: Recent developments in e-commerce have significantly shaped Amazon's strategy. In February 2025, the EU introduced comprehensive reforms establishing platform liability for unsafe products, while implementing new fees for low-value parcels in May 2025. These regulatory changes have created opportunities for established players like Amazon, whose infrastructure and compliance capabilities provide advantages over pure-play discount platforms. The timing of Haul's German launch is particularly significant, as it coincides with declining growth rates for Asian competitors, predicted by Forrester in October 2024, and follows successful expansions in other markets since November 2024.


Amazon launches bargain portal Haul in Germany

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US retail sales post biggest drop in four months

BoF
June 2025
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US retail sales post biggest drop in four months

BoF
|
June 2025

What: US retail sales dropped 0.9% in May 2025, marking the largest decline in four months, driven by decreased auto purchases and broader consumer spending caution amid tariff concerns.

Why it is important: This significant decline, occurring amid rising tariff concerns and weakening consumer confidence, signals a potential turning point in consumer spending patterns that could reshape retail strategies across sectors.

The May 2025 retail sales report reveals a broader than expected 0.9% decline, representing the most substantial drop since January. Auto and parts dealerships experienced a sharp 3.5% decrease, while building materials fell 2.7%, and service stations saw a 2.0% decline due to lower gasoline prices. Food services and dining establishments registered a 0.9% drop, traditionally viewed as a key indicator of household financial health. However, some sectors showed resilience, with online sales increasing 0.9% and clothing retailers posting a modest 0.1% gain. The Federal Reserve's response has been measured, maintaining interest rates between 4.25% and 4.50% while monitoring both the economic impact of tariffs and regional tensions. Core retail sales, which correspond most closely with the consumer spending component of GDP, increased 0.4% in May, suggesting underlying stability despite broader market volatility.

IADS Notes: The May 2025 retail sales decline of 0.9% represents the culmination of mounting economic pressures throughout early 2025. This downturn follows May's three-year low in consumer sentiment amid growing tariff concerns , aligning with the National Retail Federation's April forecast of slower 2.7-3.7% growth for the year . The impact of new tariffs, projected to add $640 billion to import costs and increase annual household expenses by $1,200 , has accelerated the decline in consumer confidence that was already evident in February 2025 . This convergence of factors suggests a fundamental shift in consumer behaviour rather than a temporary slowdown.


US retail sales post biggest drop in four months

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Luxury lethargy sets in as the market braces for up to a 5% drop in 2025

Forbes
June 2025
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Luxury lethargy sets in as the market braces for up to a 5% drop in 2025

Forbes
|
June 2025

What: Global luxury market faces 5% decline in 2025 as consumer detachment grows, with 50 million fewer customers and rising pressure on brands' price-value propositions.

Why it is important: The significant loss of customers and growing emotional disconnect reveals a fundamental shift in luxury consumption patterns, challenging the industry's long-standing growth model and requiring brands to rebuild meaningful connections with consumers.

The luxury goods market is experiencing its most significant contraction since the 2008-2009 financial crisis, with Bain and Company projecting a decline of up to 5% in 2025. This downturn stems from multiple factors, including rising geopolitical tensions, currency fluctuations, and growing consumer disillusionment with the industry's offerings. Particularly concerning is the erosion of the traditional price-value relationship, with consumers questioning substantial price increases that have seen items like handbags double in cost without corresponding increases in creativity or perceived value. The market has lost approximately 50 million customers over the past two years, with total global luxury consumers dropping to 353 million. Brand engagement metrics paint a troubling picture, with related searches down by 40% and social media follower growth plummeting by 90%. The industry faces additional challenges from executive turnover, with creative director transitions taking up to a year to complete and new collections facing a 50% failure rate. This combination of factors is impacting profit margins, even among top performers, suggesting a fundamental reset in how luxury brands must approach their market positioning and customer relationships.

IADS Notes: The luxury industry's projected 5% decline in 2025 represents a culmination of trends observed throughout 2024-2025. In December 2024, the sector experienced a 2% decline to EUR 363 billion, losing approximately 50 million consumers over two years. This downturn coincides with significant shifts in consumer psychology, particularly evident in June 2024 when "luxury fatigue" emerged in China. The industry's challenges extend beyond market performance, as demonstrated by December 2024 data showing luxury brands introducing products under USD 500 to retain middle-class consumers. Leadership transitions have also played a crucial role, with March 2025 reports highlighting how excessive accessibility threatens brand exclusivity. The transformation is further evidenced by November 2024 data showing 67% of consumers seeking simpler lifestyles, while February 2025 revealed 68% increasing wellness-related spending, confirming the shift from traditional luxury goods to meaningful experiences.


Luxury lethargy sets in as the market braces for up to a 5% drop in 2025

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Hyundai Department Store invests 30 billion won in K-fashion startup Mediquaters

The Chosun Daily
June 2025
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Hyundai Department Store invests 30 billion won in K-fashion startup Mediquaters

The Chosun Daily
|
June 2025

What: Hyundai Department Store establishes dedicated K-fashion global business team and invests 30 billion won in Mediquarters to strengthen Japanese market presence.

Why it is important: The investment highlights the growing potential of K-fashion in global markets and the evolution of department stores into cultural export platforms.

Hyundai Department Store has elevated its K-fashion global business through organisational restructuring and strategic investment. The company has established The Hyundai Global team within its department store product division, transforming it from a youth team initiative into a dedicated business unit for nurturing global brands. A significant 30 billion won investment in Mediquarters, which manages local operations in Japan, represents the company's largest corporate venture capital investment to date. The strategy has already shown success through pop-up stores in Tokyo's Shibuya Parco, generating 3 billion won in sales over two and a half months, achieving 150% of target. This success builds on The Hyundai Seoul's domestic achievements, where K-fashion has helped drive annual sales to 1 trillion won within three years, while attracting increasing international customers, from 3% to 15% of visitors.

IADS Notes: Hyundai Department Store's K-fashion global expansion represents a significant evolution in retail internationalisation strategy. According to Korea JoongAng Daily's April 2024 coverage , The Hyundai Global platform was launched to help Korean brands reduce overseas expansion costs by 30% through comprehensive support services. The Korea Herald's March 2024 analysis revealed how this initiative specifically targets Japan as its first market, with successful pop-up stores in Shibuya Parco demonstrating strong market potential. Maeil Business Newspaper's November 2024 report showed how this expansion aligns with Hyundai's broader transformation strategy, including significant investments in new store developments and digital capabilities. MK.co.kr's September 2024 coverage highlighted how strategic partnerships, including the collaboration with Hankyu Department Store, create a comprehensive framework for international growth. The 30 billion won investment in Mediquarters and the success of The Hyundai Seoul, which achieved 1 trillion won in sales without luxury brands, validates this focus on K-fashion and cultural content as drivers of international expansion.


Hyundai Department Store invests 30 billion won in K-fashion startup Mediquaters

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Nvidia bets on European AI push with new plant, partnerships amid shrinking China revenue

South China Morning Post
June 2025
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Nvidia bets on European AI push with new plant, partnerships amid shrinking China revenue

South China Morning Post
|
June 2025

What: Nvidia unveils comprehensive European AI strategy including 20 new factories and partnerships with BMW and Mistral AI, responding to $8 billion revenue impact from Chinese market restrictions.

Why it is important: The expansion addresses critical AI computing capacity needs in Europe, potentially democratising access to advanced retail technology solutions.

Nvidia's ambitious European expansion marks a strategic pivot as US export restrictions impact its Chinese operations. The company plans to establish 20 AI factories across Europe, including a German facility equipped with 10,000 GPUs, specifically designed to support manufacturing applications from design to robotics. The partnership with BMW Group exemplifies this focus on industrial innovation, while collaboration with French AI champion Mistral AI, powered by 18,000 chips, aims to create a cloud platform for European businesses. This expansion comes as Nvidia faces significant challenges in China, with recent US restrictions on its H20 chip expected to cost $8 billion in second-quarter revenue. The company's CEO, Jensen Huang, emphasised Europe's awakening to AI infrastructure importance, pledging to increase AI computing capacity tenfold over two years. The presentation also highlighted Nvidia's growing influence in robotics, featuring seven Chinese companies among sixteen robot manufacturers using their platforms.

IADS Notes: Nvidia's European expansion aligns with significant developments in retail technology infrastructure. In February 2025, the EU launched its €200bn InvestAI initiative, while France's AI Action Summit secured €150bn from private investors :cite[c0], creating a supportive environment for AI infrastructure development. This shift comes as global supply chains undergo transformation, with Chinese exports to G-7 economies declining to 30%. The focus on manufacturing innovation mirrors successful implementations like LVMH's AI Factory in July 2024, while Nvidia's Mega platform launch in January 2025 demonstrates growing demand for integrated robotics solutions. The timing is particularly relevant as BCG's January 2025 report shows 67% of executives considering autonomous AI systems, suggesting strong market potential for Nvidia's expanded European presence.


Nvidia bets on European AI push with new plant, partnerships amid shrinking China revenue

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After 6 weeks of halting orders following a cyber-attack, Marks & Spencer resumes online orders

Drapers
June 2025
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After 6 weeks of halting orders following a cyber-attack, Marks & Spencer resumes online orders

Drapers
|
June 2025

What: Marks & Spencer resumes select online fashion orders after a six-week suspension following a major cyber attack, with plans to gradually restore full digital services including beauty products and international shipping.

Why it is important: This development illustrates the evolving nature of retail cybersecurity, where complete service restoration must be balanced against ongoing security concerns, even after initial incident containment.

Marks & Spencer has begun restoring its online retail operations, enabling customers to place fashion orders for delivery across England, Scotland, and Wales. This marks the first phase of recovery following a significant cyber attack that forced the suspension of online services six weeks ago. The retailer is taking a measured approach to service restoration, with beauty products, flowers, and hampers scheduled to resume in the coming weeks, followed by the reinstatement of click & collect, next-day delivery, and international ordering services. The incident, which began with disrupted contactless payments on Easter Monday, led to the complete suspension of online orders on April 23, affecting a channel that represents 34% of all clothing and home sales. The financial impact has been substantial, with M&S expecting a £300 million reduction in group operating profit for 2025/26. The company's cautious, phased approach to resuming digital services reflects the complex balance between operational recovery and maintaining robust security measures.

IADS Notes: The gradual resumption of M&S's online operations marks a significant milestone in their recovery from April 2025's devastating cyber attack by the Scattered Spider group, which initially wiped £700 million off their market value and disrupted £3.5 million in daily digital sales. The incident's severity is reflected in the projected £300 million hit to operating profits and potential insurance claims of up to £100 million, making it one of the largest cyber insurance payouts in UK retail history. While the attack significantly impacted customer confidence, with recommendation rates dropping from 87% to 73%, the retailer's transparent crisis management helped maintain underlying trust at 82%. The broader implications have transformed the retail sector's approach to cybersecurity, driving a 10% increase in industry-wide insurance premiums and prompting retailers to prioritise rapid recovery capabilities over complete prevention strategies.


Marks & Spencer resumes online orders

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Liberty of London’s love affair with Japan

Financial Times
June 2025
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Liberty of London’s love affair with Japan

Financial Times
|
June 2025

What: Liberty's 150-year relationship with Japan has evolved into a £13 million fabric business, demonstrating how cultural exchange and market adaptation can create sustainable international retail success.

Why it is important: The evolution of Liberty's Japanese business from cultural exchange to a significant revenue stream provides a blueprint for retailers seeking to develop a long-term international presence through authentic cultural connections.

Liberty's 150-year exhibition showcases the profound impact of Japanese culture on the store's identity since its founding in 1875. Arthur Lasenby Liberty's early recognition of Japan's artistic value led to significant investments, including a remarkable £25,000 (equivalent to £2.7-3.8 million today) during his 1889 visit. The store's early commitment to Japanese craftsmanship, exemplified by hiring Hara Kitsue as one of its first three employees, established a foundation for lasting cultural exchange. Today, Japan represents Liberty's second-largest market, generating approximately £13 million in fabric sales annually. The company's Japanese subsidiary, established in the 1980s, develops both original and adapted prints specifically for the local market, selling approximately 1.5 million metres of fabric yearly. This success extends beyond direct sales, with Liberty textiles contributing to a broader business ecosystem worth over a billion in size. The company's selection to represent the UK at the World Expo 2025 in Osaka further validates their enduring connection with Japan.

IADS Notes: Liberty's evolution as a retail destination reflects its successful balance of heritage and innovation throughout 2024-2025. According to Fashion Network in November 2024, the company demonstrated strong financial performance with revenue reaching £123.9 million and improved EBITDA margins, validating its strategic approach. This success continued as Fashion Network reported in October 2024 that Liberty expanded its reach through its first scent pop-up at Battersea Power Station, showcasing its ability to extend beyond its historic location. The company's commitment to brand curation was evident when Fashion United noted in September 2024 its strategic partnership with Sézane, enhancing its retail offering. Monocle's analysis in May 2025 highlighted Liberty's position as a beacon of considered retail, successfully combining historic charm with modern retail practices. This evolution culminated in March 2025, when The Standard reported the launch of "Seventy Five," a new restaurant concept that demonstrated how heritage retailers can create contemporary experiences while honouring their traditions. The company's enduring success in Japan, representing their second-biggest market globally with £13 million in fabric sales, exemplifies how historic retailers can maintain international relevance while preserving their unique identity.


Liberty of London’s love affair with Japan

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Debenhams plans more beauty showrooms after London success

Fashion Network
June 2025
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Debenhams plans more beauty showrooms after London success

Fashion Network
|
June 2025

What: Debenhams plans to expand its physical beauty showroom concept with 3-5 new locations following the success of its London Soho space, which offers treatments and product exploration alongside its digital platform.

Why it is important: This expansion demonstrates how digital-first retailers can successfully integrate physical touchpoints to enhance customer experience and brand engagement, creating a new model for online-native businesses.

Debenhams is set to expand its physical retail presence with plans to open between three and five new beauty showrooms, building on the success of its London Soho location. The existing showroom on Great Pulteney Street, which has been operating since 2023, offers customers an immersive beauty experience including fragrance, make-up, and skincare exploration, alongside treatments such as brow tinting, facials, and blow-dries. While specific locations haven't been confirmed, major cities including Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool, Glasgow, Edinburgh, and Cardiff are potential targets for expansion. CEO Dan Finley emphasises the strategic importance of beauty in the company's overall vision, noting its role in creating delightful customer experiences and leveraging the synergy between fashion and beauty communities. The retailer's commitment to the category is evidenced by the addition of 70 new premium and prestige beauty brands to its site in the past financial year alone.

IADS Notes: Debenhams' June 2025 announcement of plans to expand its beauty showroom concept builds upon the company's transformation. The strategy follows a period of strong digital performance, with the retailer achieving a 65% increase in gross merchandise value to £359.687 million and doubled EBITDA. This financial strength has enabled investment in both physical and digital innovations, as demonstrated by the May 2025 implementation of virtual try-on technology. The success of this integrated approach has been so significant that it led to Boohoo Group rebranding as Debenhams Group in March 2025, acknowledging the effectiveness of combining digital excellence with strategic physical presence. The planned expansion of 3-5 new beauty showrooms, following the success of the London Soho space, represents the next phase in Debenhams' evolution, leveraging its digital foundation to create experiential retail destinations that combine treatments, product exploration, and technological innovation.


Debenhams plans more beauty showrooms after London success

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US shoppers ditch Shein and Temu as Trump closes tax loophole

Financial Times
June 2025
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US shoppers ditch Shein and Temu as Trump closes tax loophole

Financial Times
|
June 2025

What: Trump's elimination of the $800 duty-free threshold forces Shein and Temu to retreat from the US market, with user engagement dropping by 51% and 12% respectively.

Why it is important: The dramatic decline in user engagement reveals the vulnerability of cross-border e-commerce models to regulatory changes, while highlighting opportunities for domestic retailers and established platforms to reclaim market share.

The impact of Trump's trade policy changes has dealt a significant blow to Chinese e-commerce giants Shein and Temu in the US market. Following the elimination of the duty-free exemption for parcels under $800, Temu's monthly active users plummeted by 51% to 40.2 million between March and June, while Shein experienced a 12% decline to 41.4 million users. This dramatic shift has been accompanied by substantial reductions in advertising expenditure, with Temu cutting US ad spending by 87% and Shein by 69% compared to the previous year. Both companies have responded by pivoting their focus to European markets, where they've seen significant growth. However, their European expansion faces potential challenges as the EU plans to implement a €2 fee on small packages, and the UK considers ending its import duty exemption scheme. The companies' strategic responses include Temu's shift to US-based sellers and both platforms' increased focus on European market development.

IADS Notes: The retail landscape has witnessed a seismic shift in cross-border e-commerce dynamics. In February 2025, as the EU implemented comprehensive platform liability reforms, Shein's IPO valuation was cut to $50 billion, reflecting mounting regulatory pressures. The impact intensified in April 2025 when both Shein and Temu dramatically reduced their US digital advertising spend, with Temu slashing expenses by 31% and Shein by 19%. This marketing pullback coincided with Amazon's strategic expansion of its Haul service, demonstrating how established players can capitalise on regulatory disruption. The industry's adaptation continued with Shein's February 2025 initiative to offer 30% higher procurement prices for manufacturing relocation to Vietnam, though this faced resistance from Chinese authorities. By May 2025, the EU's proposal of a €2 fee on small packages further exemplified the global trend toward stricter oversight of cross-border e-commerce.


US shoppers ditch Shein and Temu as Trump closes tax loophole

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The North Face confirms data breach

Forbes
June 2025
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The North Face confirms data breach

Forbes
|
June 2025

What: The North Face discloses credential stuffing attack compromising customer personal data while confirming payment information remains secure through third-party protection.

Why it is important: The incident demonstrates how even major retailers with robust security measures remain vulnerable to low-cost credential stuffing attacks, highlighting the critical importance of customer password hygiene.

The North Face, a VF Corporation brand with annual revenue exceeding USD 3 billion, has confirmed a data breach resulting from a credential stuffing attack on April 23. The unauthorised access compromised customer information including names, addresses, purchase histories, email addresses, dates of birth, and telephone numbers. However, the company's use of third-party payment processing protected all financial data from exposure. The retailer responded swiftly by disabling compromised passwords and requiring all users to create new, unique credentials. This incident, affecting one of fashion's largest outdoor apparel brands, demonstrates how cybercriminals can exploit reused passwords from previous breaches to gain unauthorised system access. Security experts note that such attacks can be initiated with minimal investment, making them increasingly common against retail targets. The North Face's immediate response included enhanced system protection measures and collaboration with cybersecurity experts, while maintaining transparent communication with affected customers about the scope and nature of the breach.

IADS Notes: The North Face breach in June 2025 represents the latest in an escalating series of cyber attacks targeting major retailers. This follows Cartier's data breach earlier in June 2025 and Dior's Chinese customer database compromise in May 2025. Industry research from April 2025 reveals that ransomware accounts for 30% of retail security incidents, with average losses reaching GBP 1.4 million per attack. The retail sector's vulnerability is particularly evident as 41% of breaches now occur through third-party providers, while credential stuffing attacks can be launched with as little as GBP 500 investment in software and access tools. This incident follows the pattern seen in the M&S breach, which resulted in a GBP 700 million market value loss, demonstrating how cyber attacks have evolved from mere IT issues to fundamental business risks.


The North Face confirms data breach

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Ripley projects growth in Peru and announces key investments for 2025

Perú Retail
June 2025
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Ripley projects growth in Peru and announces key investments for 2025

Perú Retail
|
June 2025

What: Ripley Corp announces $38.5 billion investment plan for 2025, targeting strategic growth in Peru through physical expansion, technological development, and enhanced operational efficiency.

Why it is important: This strategic initiative shows how retailers are leveraging strong market performance to fund transformative investments, particularly in markets where socioeconomic shifts create new growth opportunities.

Ripley Corp has unveiled its strategic vision for 2025 during its Investor Day, demonstrating a strong commitment to growth in the Peruvian market. The company's $38.5 billion investment plan focuses on balancing physical expansion through stores and shopping centers with technological and logistical development. Led by CEO Lázaro Calderón, the presentation highlighted the company's impressive performance, including a +63% valuation growth in Chile's IPSA index. The strategy projects non-bank EBITDA for 2025 to range between $80 billion and $95 billion, representing growth of 16-38% compared to the previous year. In Peru, the company aims to boost its department store segment by improving operational efficiency, attracting new customers, and monetising data, with a particular focus on expanding into the C socioeconomic segment. The company's real estate development potential, including an additional 40,000 m² from industrial land assets, has been identified as a key defensive lever for maintaining group resilience.

IADS Notes: Ripley's June 2025 announcement of its strategic investment plan builds upon a series of successful transformations in the Latin American retail sector. The projected non-bank EBITDA growth of 16-38% for 2025 follows the company's remarkable turnaround in Q1 2025, when it achieved a net profit of 15.376 billion Chilean pesos through improved margin management and inventory control. This financial strengthening has enabled Ripley to pursue innovative retail concepts, as demonstrated by its December 2024 introduction of experiential elements such as cafes and beauty salons in key Peruvian locations. The company's optimistic outlook aligns with broader regional trends, as Latin American department stores collectively achieved 6.3% growth in Q1 2025. The $38.5 billion investment plan, focusing on both physical expansion and technological development, represents Ripley's strategic response to evolving retail dynamics, particularly in Peru where the company aims to expand its presence in the C socioeconomic segment.


Ripley projects growth in Peru and announces key investments for 2025

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In London, Oxford Street pedestrianisation gets green light

Retail Gazette
June 2025
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In London, Oxford Street pedestrianisation gets green light

Retail Gazette
|
June 2025

What: "London's Oxford Street set for pedestrianisation following overwhelming public and business support, with two-thirds backing traffic ban proposal."

Why it is important: "The strong support from both public and retailers shows how urban transformation can successfully balance commercial interests with community needs." The Mayor of London has confirmed plans to pedestrianise Oxford Street following strong public and business endorsement, with two-thirds of respondents supporting the traffic ban proposal. The initiative, which received feedback from over 6,600 businesses, individuals, and groups, will transform a 0.7-mile strip from Orchard Street to Great Portland Street. Major retailers along the street have welcomed the decision, with Selfridges' executive director Meave Wall emphasizing the potential to make the area more enticing for both locals and international visitors. IKEA's UK chief executive Peter Jekelby highlighted the benefits for the wider community, noting how the pedestrianisation will create a more welcoming and accessible space. Detailed traffic and highway proposals will be developed and consulted on later this year.

IADS Notes: The pedestrianisation of Oxford Street represents a crucial step in the street's broader transformation. According to Retail Insight Network's December 2024 coverage , the area has already seen significant revival through private sector investments, with vacancy rates dropping below 5% and major retailers committing to substantial developments. Fashion Network's May 2025 analysis revealed how the street's vacancy rate has reached historic lows of 0.5%, with retailers investing GBP 118 million in store fit-outs over the past year. Fashion Network's January 2025 report highlighted how improved occupancy has enabled landlords to increase rents to GBP 675 per square foot annually, up from GBP 625 in 2021. Drapers' February 2024 coverage showed how the GBP 132 million redevelopment of the former House of Fraser building into a mixed-use space demonstrates the street's evolution toward diverse retail experiences. The strong support for pedestrianisation from major retailers like Selfridges and IKEA suggests the initiative will further accelerate the street's transformation into a more attractive and accessible shopping destination.


In London, Oxford Street pedestrianisation gets green light

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How video content drives consumer purchase decision

BCG
June 2025
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How video content drives consumer purchase decision

BCG
|
June 2025

What: New research demonstrates how video content's influence extends beyond awareness to significantly impact consumer purchase decisions across multiple touchpoints, with creator-led content generating the highest trust and engagement.

Why it is important: With digital video interactions making consumers 2.5 times more likely to purchase compared to traditional TV advertising, this insight helps retailers adapt their marketing strategies to evolving consumer behaviours and platform preferences.

BCG's comprehensive analysis reveals a fundamental shift in how consumers interact with brands through their purchasing journey. Moving beyond the traditional marketing funnel, today's consumers engage through multiple touchpoints while streaming, scrolling, searching, and shopping. The research, based on a survey of 10,000 beauty and electronics consumers, demonstrates that video content plays a far more significant role than previously understood. Consumers are 2.5 times more likely to purchase from brands encountered through digital video interactions compared to linear TV, with creator-led content generating the highest trust levels. The study identifies five key consumer pathways, from detailed product research to spontaneous discovery, each requiring different marketing approaches. This understanding enables marketers to create influence maps for individual touchpoints, helping identify areas of under- or over-investment. The impact is substantial, with proper orchestration leading to more effective marketing strategies and higher ROI.

IADS Notes: Recent market evidence strongly validates the evolving influence of digital content on purchasing decisions. Last summer, the retail industry emerged as a leader in digital engagement, with nearly half of retailers reporting increased revenue from these initiatives. By March, 87% of retailers implementing new strategies witnessed revenue increases of 6% or more. Consumer behaviour has shifted significantly, with December data showing 38% of shoppers actively using digital content for purchase decisions. Success stories abound: in May, Estée Lauder's digital implementation reduced decision-making time from weeks to minutes, while in February, research revealed that 71% of consumers now expect personalised interactions. The industry's response has been decisive, as evidenced by BCG's June survey showing 83% of CMOs expressing optimism about digital implementation.


How video content drives consumer purchase decision

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AliExpress makes ‘wide-ranging commitments’ to catch illegal content

Inside Retail
June 2025
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AliExpress makes ‘wide-ranging commitments’ to catch illegal content

Inside Retail
|
June 2025

What: European Commission secures binding commitments from AliExpress to improve platform safety measures.

Why it is important: The agreement sets a precedent for e-commerce platform accountability in the EU, reflecting broader regulatory efforts to ensure digital marketplace safety and compliance.

The European Commission has accepted and made binding a series of commitments from AliExpress following concerns over the platform's handling of illegal and pornographic content. The investigation, launched in March, highlighted deficiencies in AliExpress's response to illegal products, potentially exposing the company to significant penalties. The commitments address several key areas, including enhanced systems for monitoring and detecting illegal products such as medicines and food supplements. They also improve the transparency of advertising and recommender systems while making trader traceability more efficient. Despite these commitments, AliExpress still faces potential fines for underestimating illegal product risks and failing to enforce penalties against non-compliant traders. The company has expressed its proactive engagement with the Commission and commitment to ongoing dialogue to address remaining concerns.

IADS Notes: The European Commission's action against AliExpress in June 2025 represents a culmination of intensifying regulatory pressure on e-commerce platforms. This follows February 2025's landmark legislation making platforms directly liable for unsafe products :cite[cc], demonstrating the EU's commitment to stricter oversight. The timing is particularly significant as it coincides with broader regulatory initiatives, including May 2025's introduction of new handling fees for cross-border parcels and June 2025's BEUC complaint against Shein over manipulative practices. These actions reflect a comprehensive approach to platform governance, reinforced by March 2025's implementation of enhanced environmental and supply chain due diligence requirements. The focus on illegal content monitoring aligns with discussions from the International Product Safety Week, highlighting the EU's growing emphasis on consumer protection in digital marketplaces.


AliExpress makes ‘wide-ranging commitments’ to catch illegal content

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Selfridges wins approval for private members’ club

BoF
June 2025
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Selfridges wins approval for private members’ club

BoF
|
June 2025

What: Westminster City Council grants Selfridges permission to convert office space into an exclusive members' club with dining and terrace facilities at its Oxford Street flagship.

Why it is important: This development reflects a strategic shift in luxury retail, where department stores are creating exclusive spaces to capture high-value customers who generate 25% of sales, while maximizing revenue from existing real estate.

Selfridges has secured approval from Westminster City Council to transform its current staff office space into an exclusive membership venue at its flagship London store. The development, part of a broader plan to launch a new shopping and social destination on Duke Street, will feature a terrace and private dining facilities. The space, located in the 1930s SWOD building extension, will include an internal bar and lounge accommodating 80 covers, a private dining room and terrace with 14 covers, and an external dining terrace seating 50 people. Operating hours will extend from 8am to 12:30am Sunday to Thursday, and until 1:30am on Friday and Saturday. The project, backed by owners Saudi Arabia's Public Investment Fund and Thailand's Central Group, demonstrates Selfridges' commitment to evolving its retail offering. The 50-year approval for either membership club or retail usage provides flexibility for future adaptations, ensuring the historic property's continued relevance in London's competitive luxury retail landscape.

IADS Notes: Selfridges' approval for a private members' club marks a significant evolution in its customer engagement strategy. The development follows the successful launch of their 'Selfridges Unlocked' loyalty programme in February 2025, which pioneered a new approach to customer rewards through both purchases and experiences . The timing is particularly strategic, as industry data from May 2025 revealed that the top 1% of customers generate approximately 25% of department store sales, validating significant investment in premium spaces . The '40 Duke' project, announced in June 2025, represents a broader transformation in luxury retail engagement, featuring extensive dining spaces and extended operating hours that cater to evolving post-pandemic consumer preferences for exclusive, private environments.


Selfridges wins approval for private members’ club

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M&S tech partner denies blame for cyber-attack

Drapers
June 2025
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M&S tech partner denies blame for cyber-attack

Drapers
|
June 2025

What: TCS refutes claims of responsibility in M&S cyber security incident, asserting that none of its systems or users were compromised in the attack that suspended online operations.

Why it is important: The situation demonstrates how cyber attacks have evolved into complex investigations involving multiple stakeholders, with significant implications for retailer-vendor relationships and accountability.

Technology services provider TCS has firmly denied any involvement in the recent cyber attack at Marks & Spencer, stating that none of its systems or users were compromised. This statement comes in response to earlier reports suggesting TCS, a long-term technology partner of M&S, might have been the gateway for the attack. The incident, which began on 22 April, led to the suspension of online orders on M&S's website and app, including its click-and-collect service, affecting a channel that represents 34% of all clothing and home sales. The financial implications have been substantial, with M&S revealing in its full-year financial results that it expects a £300 million reduction in group operating profit for 2025/26.TCS's denial, delivered by independent director Keki Mistry at their annual shareholder meeting, emphasizes that no other customers were impacted, highlighting the isolated nature of the breach while raising questions about its true origin. This development adds another layer of complexity to the ongoing investigation and recovery efforts.

IADS Notes: TCS's denial of responsibility in the M&S cyber attack adds another layer to a significant retail security crisis that began in April 2025. The incident, initially attributed to human error at a third-party supplier in May 2025, resulted in a £300 million profit impact and forced a three-week suspension of online operations. The attack's severity was demonstrated by a £700 million reduction in market value and £3.5 million in daily digital sales losses. While customer recommendation rates dropped from 87% to 73%, M&S maintained relatively stable underlying trust at 82% through transparent crisis management. The breach's broader implications triggered a chain reaction across the UK retail sector by May 2025, with both Harrods and Co-op suffering similar attacks, leading to a 10% increase in industry-wide cyber insurance premiums. This situation highlights the complex challenges retailers face in managing third-party technology partnerships and securing their digital infrastructure.


M&S tech partner denies blame for cyber-attack

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Galeries Lafayette’s affiliate SGM obtains a €96m refinancing to relaunch its shopping centres

Fashion Network
June 2025
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Galeries Lafayette’s affiliate SGM obtains a €96m refinancing to relaunch its shopping centres

Fashion Network
|
June 2025

What: SGM secures EUR 96 million refinancing for six shopping centres, demonstrating successful retail property management with occupancy rates increasing from 60% to 95%.

Why it is important: The refinancing represents a significant vote of confidence in brick-and-mortar retail transformation strategies.

The Société des Grands Magasins (SGM) has secured a EUR 96 million refinancing package for six of its shopping centres across France, including prominent locations in Lille, Roubaix, Mulhouse, Kremlin-Bicêtre, Châlons-en-Champagne, and Metz. The 15-year amortising mortgage loan, arranged with Bpifrance, BGL BNP Paribas, and several regional Caisse d'Épargne branches, positions the group's loan-to-value ratio at 45%. Under the Merlin family's leadership, SGM has demonstrated success in revitalising retail assets, with five of the six refinanced centres seeing occupancy rates surge from 60% to 95% over six years, while tripling their value and doubling net rental income. The group, which manages eleven sites in total, specialises in transforming struggling commercial properties through strategic renovations and tenant mix optimisation. Their expertise extends beyond shopping centres to department stores, as evidenced by their management of seven affiliated Galeries Lafayette locations and their ongoing integration of the recently acquired BHV operations.

IADS Notes: SGM's successful refinancing builds upon their proven track record in retail transformation. As reported in January 2025, their management of BHV demonstrated significant progress, achieving EUR 9.6 million EBITDA despite challenging market conditions . This success was further reinforced in September 2024 when SGM's EUR 38 million recapitalisation of BHV yielded positive early results . The group's approach to retail asset management, combining physical renovation with strategic tenant mix optimization, aligns with broader industry trends seen in March 2025, where successful operators are increasingly focusing on creating value through comprehensive property transformation.


Galeries Lafayette’s affiliate SGM obtains a €96m refinancing to relaunch its shopping centres

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